^ 

^  ^ 

"^^ 

Q     ^  ^..^r  c 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


^^r^ 
•<^^^ 


4^ «  "a'^ 


^ 


4^ 


^^ 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


2.2 
2.0 


lu  12,2 

ly 

lU 


us 


14.0 


i 


U    11.6 


6" 


^^ 


y 


HiotogFaphic 

SdoiGes 

Corporation 


^ 


A* 


<^ 


^^  <*^3^- 


n  WnT  MAM  STIRT 

WiliSTIR,N.Y.  USM 
(7U)t72.4M» 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


\ 


CIHJVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Inttituta  for  Historical  IMicroraproductions  /  Inttitut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  liistoriqiias 


TMhnlcal  and  Bibliographic  NotM/NotM  tacliniquM  at  tMbHographiquaa 


Tha  inatituta  liaa  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
originai  copy  avaiiabia  for  fiiming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  whicli  may  Im  bibiiographicaily  uniqua, 
whicli  may  altar  any  of  tha  Imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction,  or  which  may  aignificantly  changa 
tha  uaual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chaclcad  balow. 


D 


D 


D 


D 


Colourad  covara/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


I     I   Covara  damagad/ 


Couvartura  andommagAa 


□  Covara  raatorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  raatauria  at/ou  pallicuMa 

□  Covar  titia  miaaing/ 
La  titra  Ja  couvartura  manqua 

□  Colourad  mapa/ 
Cartaa  gtegraph 


gtegraphiquaa  an  coulaur 

•d  ink  (i.a.  othar  than  blua 
Encra  da  coulaur  (I.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 


r~n   Colourad  ink  (i.a.  othar  than  blua  or  black)/ 


rri  Colourad  plataa  and/or  lliuatrationa/ 


Ptanchaa  at/ou  lliuatrationa  an  coulaur 


Bound  with  ottiar  matarial/ 
Ralii  avac  d'autraa  documanta 


FT]   Tight  binding  may  oauaa  sliadowa  or  diatortion 


atong  intarior  margin/ 

La  f  liura  aarrAa  paut  cauaar  da  I'ombra  ou  da  la 

diatortion  la  long  da  la  marga  IntMaura 

Blank  laavaa  addad  during  raatoratlon  may 
appaar  within  tha  taxt.  Whanavar  poaaibia.  thaaa 
hava  baan  omittad  from  filming/ 
II  aa  paut  qua  cartainaa  pagaa  blanchaa  ajoutiaa 
lora  d'una  raatauration  apparaiaaant  dana  la  taxta, 
mala,  ioraqua  caia  Atait  poaaibia,  caa  pagaa  n'ont 
paa  At*  filmtoa. 

Additional  commanta:/ 
Commantairaa  auppMmantalraa: 


Th< 
toi 


L'Inatitut  a  microfilm*  la  maillaur  axampiaira 
qu'il  lui  a  At*  poaaibia  da  aa  procurar.  Laa  dAtaila 
da  cat  axampiaira  qui  aont  paut-Atra  uniquaa  du 
point  da  vua  bibliographiqua,  qui  pauvant  modifiar 
una  imaga  raproduita,  ou  qui  pauvant  axigar  una 
modification  dana  la  mAtlrada  normaki  da  filmaga 
aont  indiquAa  ci-daaaoua. 


I — I  Colourad  pagaa/ 


D 


Pagaa  da  coulaur 

Pagaa  damagad/ 
Pagaa  andommagAaa 

Pagaa  raatorad  and/oi 

Pagaa  raataurAaa  at/ou  palliculAaa 

Pagaa  diacolourad,  atalnad  or  foxai 
Pagaa  dAcoiorAaa,  tachatAaa  ou  piquAaa 

Pagaa  datachad/ 
Pagaa  dAtachAaa 


I — I   Pagaa  damagad/ 

n*n   Pagaa  raatorad  and/or  laminatad/ 

0   Pagaa  diacolourad,  atalnad  or  foxad/ 
Pagaa 

I     I   Pagaa  datachad/ 


Th( 
poi 
of 
fiin 


Ori 


aio 
oth 
fira 


r^   Showthrough/ 


Tranaparanca 

Quality  of  prir 

QualitA  InAgala  da  I'impraaalon 

Includaa  aupplamantary  matarii 
Comprand  du  matArial  aupplAmantaira 

Only  adition  avaiiabia/ 
Saula  Adition  dlaponiMa 


I     I   Quality  of  print  variaa/ 

rn   Includaa  aupplamantary  matarial/ 

I — I   Only  adition  avaiiabia/ 


TN 
aha 

TIN 


difl 
ami 
bag 

rigli 


Pagaa  wholly  or  partially  obacurad  by  arrata 
alipa,  tiaauaa,  ate.,  hava  baan  rafllmad  to 
anaura  tha  baat  poaaibia  imaga/ 
Laa  pagaa  totaiamant  ou  partiallamant 
obacurdaa  par  un  fauillat  d'arrata,  una  palura, 
ate.,  ont  AtA  flimAaa  A  nouvaau  da  fa^on  A 
obtanir  la  maiHaura  imaga  poaalMa. 


Thia  itam  la  fllmad  at  tha  raduction  ratio  chaokad  balow/ 

Ca  documant  aat  filmA  au  taux  da  NMuction  indlquA  ci-daaaoua. 

10X  14X  laX  22X 


2SX 


30X 


I 


12X 


ItX 


aox 


a4x 


32X 


Th«  copy  fllm«d  tmn  has  bacn  raproduMd  thanks 
to  the  QMiaroslty  of: 

Brock  Unhranity 
StCatfiwrinM 


L'Momplairo  filmA  fut  raproduit  grica  A  la 
O^nArotit*  da: 

Brock  Univtnity 
StCithariiiM 


quality 
lagiblllty 
tha 


Tha  imagaa  appaaring  hara  ara  tha 
poasibia  eonsldaring  tha  condition 
of  tlia  original  copy  and  in  kaaping 
filming  eontraet  apadfleationa. 


Original  eopiaa  in  printad  papar  eovara  ara  fllmad 
baginning  with  tha  front  eovar  and  anding  on 
tha  laat  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impraa- 
sten.  or  tha  back  cover  whan  appropriate.  AH 
otiMr  original  eopiaa  ara  fllmad  baginning  on  tha 
first  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impraa* 
sion,  and  anding  on  tha  laat  paga  with  a  printad 
or  Hhwtratad  impraaalon. 


Tha  laat  racordod  frama  on  aach  microfieha 
•halt  contain  tha  symbol  —^  (moaning  "CON- 
TINUf  D").  or  tha  symbol  ▼  (moaning  "END"), 
whteliavar  appiiaa. 


Las  imagas  suivsntss  ont  Ati  raproduitss  avac  Is 
plus  grand  soln.  compts  tsnu  ds  la  condition  st 
da  la  nattat*  da  I'axampiaira  film*,  st  sn 
conformit*  avac  laa  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 

Laa  anampiairaa  originaux  dont  la  couvartura  sn 
papiar  aat  imprimto  sent  fiimAs  sn  commsn^ant 
par  la  pramiar  plat  at  an  tarminant  soit  psr  Is 
dsmiAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  smprsints 
d'imprassion  ou  d'illustrstion,  soit  psr  Is  sscond 
ptat.  ssion  Is  CSS.  Tous  Iss  sutrss  sxsmplsirss 
originaux  sont  filmAs  sn  commsn^snt  psr  la 
pramiAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'impraaaion  ou  d'illustrstion  st  sn  tsrminant  psr 
la  dami*ra  paga  qui  comporta  una  talla 
amprainta. 

Un  daa  symboiss  suivsnts  sppsrsltra  sur  la 
damiAra  imaga  da  chaqua  microfiche,  salon  la 
cas:  la  symbols  -^  signifis  "A  SUIVRE".  Is 
symbols  ▼  signifis  "FIN". 


Mapa,  platee,  charts,  ste..  may  be  filmed  et 
different  reduction  retioe.  Thoee  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  expoeure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  comer,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  aa  many  framee  ae 
required.  The  following  dlegrama  iHuatrata  tha 
method: 


Las  csrtss,  pisnches,  tabieeux.  etc..  psuvsnt  *trs 
filmto  k  das  taux  da  rMuction  diff Aronts. 
Lorsqus  Is  document  est  trop  grsnd  pour  Atrs 
rsproduit  sn  un  soul  ciichA.  ii  est  f iim*  A  partir 
da  I'angie  supArisur  gsuchs.  ds  gauchs  *  droits, 
st  da  liaut  en  baa.  en  prenant  la  nombra 
d'images  n4cssseire.  Las  disgrsmmss  suivsnts 
illustrsnt  la  mithoda. 


1  2  3 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

• 

6 

'  r 


THE    FALLS    OF     NIAGARA: 


BEING 


A   COMPLETE   GUIDE  TO   ALL  THE   POINTS   OF  INTEREST  AROUND  AND  IN 
THE   IMMEDIATE  NEIGHBOURHOOD  OF  THE  GREAT  CATARACT. 


WITH 


VIEWS  TAKEN  FROM  SKETCHES  BY  WASHINGTON  FRIEND,  ESQ., 
AND  FROM  PHOTOGRAPHS. 


T.    NELSON   AND   SONS,   42   BLEECKER   STREET,   NEW   YORK. 
TORONTO:   JAMES   CAMPBELL  AND   SON. 


mmmmmm'immgmmmm^^ 


mmmm^^^milim^^f9.f '  iiib^w.^ib.uu™ 


■:^. 


f 


INDEX. 


ABBOT,  FKAN0I8,  THE  DEIIMIT  OF  TUE  FALLH, 
AHERIQAM  FALL,  SIZE  OF,     . 
AMERICAN  FALL,  VIEW  FROM  BELOW, 
AMERICAN  FALL,  CANADIAN  SIDE, 
*  VERY,  JOSEPH, 
BATH  ISLAND, 
BATTLE  OF  CHIPPEWA, 
riddle's  STAIRS, 

black  rock, 

blondin's  feats, 

bloody  run, 

bridge  over  the  rapids, 

bridge,  new  suspension,  at  niagara  falls, 

bridge,  niagara  suspension, 

brock's  MONUMENT, 
BUFFALO, 
BURNING  SPRING, 

CAROLINE,  BURNING  OF  THE 

CAVE  OF  THE  WINDS,  

CENTRE  FALL, 

(17) 


21 
10 
10 
17 

0 
18 
16 
19 
32 
20 
SO 

7 
27 
26 
80 
82 
16 
32 
22 

19 


CHAPIN  ISLAND 

CHIPPEWA,       .. 
CLIFTON  BOUSE, 

DEVIL'S  HOLE,  

FALLS,  VILLAGE  or  TUE, 

ferry  house, 

goat  or  iris  island, 

goat  or  iris  island,  head  of,     . . 

grand  island, 

gull  island, 

hermit's  cascade 

hermit  of  the  falls,       

horse-shoe  fall,     . . 

hor8e-8hob  fall,  from  below  goat  island, 

HOTELS, 

ISLANDS,  THE,  

LBWISTON, 

LVNA  ISLAND,  

LUNAR  BOW,    . . 

LUNDY'S  LANE  BATTLE  OBOUIIO,       .. 


9 
33 
17 
SO 

6 
10 
18 
23 
32 
16 
23 
21 
13 
22 

7 

83 
31 
19 
19 


iv 


INDEX. 


UAID  OF  THK  MIBT, 

UASSASACOA,  FORT, 

MINERAL  SPRINGS, 

H088  ISLAKD, 

MCSECM, 

NAVY  ISLAND, 

NIAQARA  FALLS,  SIZE  OP, 

HIAOARA  FALLS,  DISCOVERT  OF,       . 

NIAOARA  FALLS  FROM  POINT  VIEW, 

MIAQARA,  FORT, 

NIAGARA  RIVER  ABOVE  THE  FALLS, 

NIAGARA  RIVER  BELOW  THE  FALLS, 

NIAGARA  BY  MOONLIGHT, 

NIAGARA  IN  WINTER, 

NIAGARA  TOWN, 

OBJBOTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  NEiaHBOCRHOOD, 

PROSPECT  HOUSE, 


.      13 
.      82 

.  30 
.  S3 
.  16 
.  38 
6,10 
6 
.  9 
,  82 
.  32 
.  17 
.  25 
.  24 

.  sa 

.     28 
.  14 


Qll-EEKBTON, 

RAILROAD,  ERIE  AND  ONTARIO, 

RAILROAD,  BUFFALO,  NIAGARA  FALLS,  AND 

SAM  patch's  LEAPS, 

8CHL0SSER,  FORT, 

SOLAR  BOW,     . . 

STATISTICS,      . . 

TABLE  ROOK,  .. 

TERRAPIN  TOWER, 

THREE  SISTERS, 

TONA WANDA,  . . 

WATERLOO  VILLAGE, 

WHIRLPOOL,  THE, 

WHITE  CANOE — LEGEND, 


GEOLOGY  OF  NIAGARA, 
DESCRIPTIVE  FTECHS, 


•             ••             •• 

31 

•               ••               •  • 

17 

D  LBWISTON, 

81 

•            •>            •• 

20 

•            •  •             •  • 

82 

•            •  •             •  • 

19 

. 

6 

11 

. 

20 

. 

15 

.      ■  •       •  • 

82 

. 

82 

. 

80 



2.'; 

•      •  •      •• 

84 

•                  ••                  r  • 

40 

m 


31 
17 
81 
20 
82 
19 
6 
11 
20 
15 


80 

25 

84 
M 


FALLS     OF     NIAGARA. 


INTRODUCTION. 


Thb  Palls  of  Niagara  may  justly  be  classed  ninong  the 
wonders  of  the  world-  They  are  the  pride  of  America, 
and  their  grandeur,  magnitude,  and  magnificence  are  well 
kuowo  to  all  the  civilized  world.  Kver  since  the  dis- 
covery of  this  wonderful  cataract,  millions  have  flocked 
thither  from  all  countries  to  gaze  with  feelings  of  the  deep- 
est solemnity  on  the  tumultuous  fall  of  waters,  and  to 
adore  the  power  and  majesty  of  the  Almighty  as  these  are 
exhibited  and  realized  amid  the  sublime  scenery  of  this 
stupendous  waterfall. 

In  the  following  pages  we  shall  attempt  to  guide  the 
traveller  to  the  various  points  whence  the  finest  views  of 
the  Falls  may  be  obtained,  and,  thereafter,  conduct  him 
to  the  spots  of  peculiar  interest  in  their  neighbourhood. 
(17) 


The  great  lakes  of  North  America— Superior,  Michi- 
gan, Huron,  and  Erie— pour  the  flood  of  their  accumu- 
lated waters  into  Lake  Ontario  through  a  channel  of 
about  36  miles  in  length.  This  channel  is  named  the 
Niagara  Biver,  and  is  part  of  the  boundary  between 
Canada  and  the  State  of  New  York.  Twenty-two  miles 
below  its  commencement  at  Lake  Erie  occur  the  famous 
Falls  of  Niagara.  Tliese  Falls  are  divided  into  two  by 
Iris  or  Goat  Island.  The  American  Falls  are  900  feet 
wide,  by  164  feet  high.  The  Horse-Shoe  or  Canadian 
Fall  is  2000  feet  wide,  and  158  feet  high.  The  origin  of 
the  name  is  uncertain,  but  it  is  supposed  to  be  of  Iroquois 
extraction,  and  to  signify  the  "  Thunder  of  Waters." 
The  roar  of  the  Falls  is  sometimes  heard  at  a  great  dis- 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


tance,  but  of  course  it  is  constantly  modified  by  the  direc- 
tion and  strength  of  the  wind.  Over  this  magnificent 
precipice  the  irresistible  tide  rushes  at  the  rate  of  100 
million  ton?  of  water  every  hour !  It  is  computed  that 
the  precipice  is  worn  away  by  the  friction  of  the  water  at 
the  rate  of  about  one  foot  a  year,  and  it  is  believed  that 
the  Falls  have  gradually  receded  from  Queenston,  seven 
miles  below,  to  their  present  position.  The  river  above 
the  Falls  is  studded  with  islands  of  all  sizes,  amounting 
to  37  in  number.  The  width  of  the  stream  varies  from 
several  hundred  yards  to  three  miles.  At  the  Falls  it  is 
about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide.  The  total  descent  from 
Lake  Erie  to  Ontario  is  334  feet.     So  much  for  statistics. 

The  Falls  of  Niagara  were  first  seen  by  a  white  man 
nearly  two  hundred  years  ago.  Father  Hennepin,  a  French 
Jesuit  missionary,  first  saw  them  when  on  an  expedi- 
tion of  discovery  in  the  year  1678. 

The  spots  of  interest  to  be  visited,  besides  the  great 
Fall  itself,  are : — The  ground  where  the  memorable 
Battle  of  Lundy's  Lane  was  fought ;  the  Whirlpool 
below  the  Falls ;  the  Suspension  Bridges  ;  the  Devil's 
Hole  and  the  Bloody  Run ;  the  Queenston  Heights, 
General  Brock's  Monument,  Burning  Spring,  kc. 
(17) 


We  think  it  right  to  say  that  the  Engravings  with 
which  our  work  is  embellished  may  be  depended  on  as 
being  minutely  correct,  the  most  of  them  having  been 
copied  from  photographs,  and  others  taken  from  drawings 
made  on  the  spot  by  Washington  Friend,  Esq.,  whose 
beautiful  and  cleverly  executed  Panorama  of  American 
Scenery  is  so  well  known  to  the  public. 


Let  us  suppose,  then,  reader,  that  you  have  reached 
the  Falls  on  the  American  side;  that  you  have  just 
alighted  from  the  train  in  the  Village  of  the  Falls,  and 
the  thunder  of  Niagara  is  sounding  in  your  ears.  It  were 
superfluous  to  give  you  minute  directions  how  to  proceed. 
Follow  the  crowd,  and  you  cannot  go  wrong ;  there  are 
also  numerous  ready  and  efficient  guides,  and,  were  these 
lacking,  the  roar  of  the  great  cataract  would  of  itself  be 
sufficient. 

The  Village  of  the  Falls,  through  which  you  pass,  lies 
on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
the  grand  cataract,  22  miles  by  rail  from  the  city  of 
Buffalo  on  Lake  Erie,  and  300  by  rail  from  Albany. 
Being  a  fashionable  place  of  resort  during  summer  and 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


ivings  with 
nded  on  m 
laving  been 
iin  drawings 
Esq.,  who8« 
f  American 


ave  reached 
u  have  just 
e  Falls,  and 
lars.  It  were 
iv  to  proceed. 
J ;  there  are 
1,  were  these 
1  of  itself  be 

rou  pass,  lies 
te  vicinity  of 
I  the  city  of 
:om  Albany, 
summer  and 


autumn,  the  ItoteU  at  this  village  are  excellent  in  all  re- 
■pects,  and  most  agreeable  abodes  for  those  who  intend 
to  sojourn  for  a  time  within  sound  of  the  Falls.  The 
chief  of  them  are  the  Cataract  House,  the  International 
Hotel,  Spencer  House  (opposite  Dep6t) ;  three  magnificent 
houses,  in  which  every  comfort  is  combined  with  elegance. 
The  Cataract  House  is  situated  at  the  head  of  Main 
Street,  overlooking  the  American  Rapids.  From  the 
parlours  of  this  famous  hotel,  one  of  which  is  40  feet  by 
CO,  with  a  22  feet  ceiling,  a  fine  view  is  had  of  the 
Rapids,  Uo.'\t  Island,  the  Bridge,  and  the  Canada  shores, 
considered  among  the  principal  features  of  Niagara. 
Conveyances  may  be  had  from  any  of  the  above  hotels  to 
all  parts  of  Niagara.  Rut  we  are  too  near  the  Falls  to 
linger  here.  Pushing  forward  down  the  street  leading 
past  the  hotels  just  mentioned,  we  come  into  full  view  of 
the  river  at  the  point  where  it  is  spanned  by  the 

CAST-IRON  BRIDGE  OVER  THE  RAPIDS. 
Here  the  first  perceptions  of  power  and  grandeur  begin 
to  awaken  in  our  minds.     The  noble  river  is  seen  hurry- 
ing on  towards  its  final  leap;  and,  as  we  stand  upon  the 
bridge  looking  down  upon  the  gushing  flood  of  water,  that 
(17) 


seems  as  if  it  would  sweep  away  our  frail  standing- 
ground  and  hurl  us  over  the  dread  precipice  whose 
rounded  edge  is  but  a  few  yards  further  down,  we  begin, 


TUE  BAPlUd  ABOVE  THE  FALLS. 


though  feebly  as  yet,  to  realize  the  immensity  of  this  far- 
famed  cataract.     This  is  the  finest  point  of  view  from 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


which  to  observe  the  Rapida  above  the  Falls.  The  fall  of 
the  river  from  the  head  of  the  rapids  (a  mile  above  the 
Falls)  to  the  edge  of  the  precipice  is  nearly  60  feet; 
and  the  tumultuous  madness  of  the  waters,  hurling  and 
foaming  in  wayward  billows  and  breakers  down  this  de- 
scent, as  if  fretting  with  impatience,  is  a  fine  contrast 
to  the  uniform  magnificent  bweep  with  which  at  length 
they  gush  into  the  thundering  flood  below. 

At  the  other  end  of  the  bridge,  as  seen  in  our  En- 
(rraving,  is  Bath  Island,  connected  with  Iris  or  Goat 
Island  by  another  bridge ;  and  beyond  Goat  Island  tliere 
are  a  few  scattered  rocks,  which  are  connected  with  it  by 
means  of  a  third  bridge.  These  rocks  lie  on  the  very 
brink  of  the  precipice,  between  the  American  Falls 
and  the  Ilorse-Shoe  Fall,  and  on  them  stands  a  tower 
named  the  Terrapin  Tower,  which  commands  a  raasnifi- 
cent  view  of  Niagara.  But  there  are  finer  points  of  view 
than  this.  Moreover,  we  shall  afterwards  have  to  con- 
duct our  reader  to  various  points  of  great  interest  on  and 
around  these  islands,  which,  however,  no  one  will  feel 
disposed  to  visit  until  he  has  given  his  undivided  atten- 
tion to  the  wonderful  Falls  from  the  most  striking  points 
of  view.  We  therefore  recommend  him  not  to  cross  over 
(17) 


to  Goat  Island  in  the  first  instance,  but,  after  having 
stood  upon  the  bridge  over  the  rapids  above  described, 
retrace  his  steps  and  hasten  down  the  banks  of  the  river 
a  few  hundred  yards,  to  a  spot  named  Point  View. 

Before  proceeding  thither,  however,  we  may  say  a  word 
or  two  in  reference  to  the  bridge  we  are  about  to  leave. 
The  elegant  and  substantial  structure  that  now  spans  the 
river  at  this  point,  was  erected  by  the  Messrs.  Porter, 
the  proprietors  of  Goat  Island.  It  is  made  of  iron,  on 
tiie  plan  of  Whipple's  iron-arched  bridge,  and  is  360  feet 
lontr,  having  4  arches  of  90  feet  span  each.  The  width 
is  27  feet,  embracing  a  double  carriage-way  of  16.J  feet, 
and  two  foot-paths  of  ftj  feet  eacii,  with  iron  railings. 
All  the  materials  used  in  its  construction  are  of  tlie  best 
quality,  and  the  strength  of  ail  the  parts  is  much  beyond 
what  is  considered  necessary. 

Visitors  may  cross  and  recross  this  bridge  as  often  as 
they  wish  for  50  cents  per  day,  or  for  one  dollar  for  the 
whole  season. 

The  first  bridge  that  was  thrown  over  these  turbulent 
waters  was  constructed  at  the  head  of  Goat  Island  in 
1817.  It  was  carried  away  by  ice  in  the  following  spring, 
and  was  succeeded  by  another,  which  was  built  in  1818, 


out  Mi'lil 


'/I'lwy  .V'c'i'  .*')// 


after  having 
ve  described, 
I  of  the  river 

View, 

y  Bay  a  word 
tut  to  leave, 
ow  spans  the 
ssrs.  Porter, 
i  of  iron,  on 
d  is  860  feet 
The  width 

of  16.J  feet, 
on  railings. 
!  of  the  best 
luch  beyond 

as  often  as 
liar  for  the 

le  turbulent 
it  Island  in 
Aug  spring, 
ilt  in  1818, 


WIN  >r 


I' 


^,... 


NIA&AHA      IMIS      (ROM      POINT      PROSPICI         AMfRIC»N     SlOl 


1 


'  ' 


•''% 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


9 


on  the  site  of  the  present  structure.  The  difficulties  at- 
tending its  construction  were  overcome  in  the  following 
manner : — A  massive  abutment  of  timber  was  built  at 
the  water's  edge,  from  which  were  projected  enormously 
long  and  heavy  beums  of  timber.  These  beams  were 
secured  on  the  land  side  by  heavy  loads  of  stone,  and 
their  outer  ends  were  rendered  steady  by  means  of  stiltfi 
or  legs  let  down  from  them  and  thrust  into  the  bottom 
of  the  river.  A  platform  was  thrown  over  this  projec- 
tion, along  which  heavy  masses  of  stone  were  carried  and 
drop])ed  into  the  river.  This  operation  was  continued 
until  the  heap  appeared  above  water,  and  then  a  strong 
frame-work  of  timber,  filled  solidly  with  stone,  was  built 
upon  it.  To  this  pier  the  first  permanent  portion  of  the 
bridge  was  fixed,  and  then,  commencing  from  the  ex- 
tremity, beams  were  run  out  and  a  second  pier  similarly 
formed,  and  so  on  till  the  bridge  was  completed.  It  was 
built  by  the  Messrs.  Porter— extensive  proprietors  in  this 
neighbourhood— and  was  repaired  in  1839  and  again  in 
1849. 

In  the  former  year  one  of  tiie  workmen,  named  Chapin, 
fell  from  the  bridge  into  tlie  river ;  fortunately  the  cur- 
runt  carried  him  to  the  first  of  the  two  small  islets  below. 
(17) 


He  was  rescued  from  his  perilous  position  by  Mr.  J.  R. 
Robinson,  who  has  more  than  once  bravely  rescued 
fellow-creatures  from  this  dangerous  river;  and.  the 
island  was  named  after  him— Chapin  Island. 

In  July  1853  another  accident  occurred  near  this 
point.  Two  Germans  took  a  boat,  and  set  out  for  a 
pleasure  sail  on  the  river  above  the  Falls.  Nothing 
more  was  heard  of  them  until  next  morning,  when  one 
of  them,  named  Joseph  Avery,  was  observed  clinging  to 
a  log  sticking  in  the  midst  of  the  rapids,  near  the  bridge 
between  Bath  Island  and  the  mainland.  Thousands  of 
people  assembled  to  render  the  poor  man  assistance,  and 
during  the  day  various  attempts  were  made  to  resue  him 
from  his  perilous  position,  but  without  success.  At 
length  a  boat  was  lowered  down  the  rapids  toward  the 
log  to  which  he  clung.  It  neared  him,  and  he  attempted 
to  spring  towards  it ;  but  his  strength  was  gone,  and  he 
fell  into  the  stream.  In  another  moment  he  was  swept 
over  the  Falls.     His  body  was  never  found. 

NIAGARA  FALLS  FROM  POINT  VIEW. 
This  is  indeed  a  sight  worth  coming  many  hundred 
miles  to  see.    Walking  through  the  Grove,  we  emerge 


10 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


i: 


upon  the  P>^Int  in  front  of  an  establishment  where 
thousands  of  visitors  are  photographed  annually  in  con- 
nection with  the  Falls.  Here,  at  one  wide  sweep,  we 
behold  Niagara  stretching  from  the  American  to  the 
Canadian  side  in  magnificent  perspeclive.  Just  at  our 
feet  the  smooth  deep  masses  of  the  American  Falls  un- 
dulate convulsively  4is  they  hurl  over  the  precipice,  and 
dash,  in  a  never-ending  succession  of  what  we  may  term 
passionate  bursts,  upon  the  rugged  rocks  beneath. 
Beyond,  and  a  little  to  the  left,  is  Goat  Island,  richly 
clothed  with  trees,  its  drooping  end  seeming  as  if  it  too 
were  plunging,  like  the  mighty  river,  into  the  seething 
abyss.  Just  off  the  Point  is  seen  the  Terrapin  Tower, 
and  right  in  front  of  us  is  the  great  Horse-Shoe  Fall, 
uttering  its  deep,  deafening  roar  of  endless  melody,  as  it 
plunges  majestically  into  that  curdling  sea,  from  which 
the  white  cloud  of  mist  rises  high  in  air  and  partially 
conceals  the  background  of  Canada  from  view.  Far 
down  in  the  river  below,  the  ferry-boats  are  seen  dancing 
on  the  angry  waters.  It  is  a  solemnizing  prosiiect,  and 
wc  should  suppose  that  few  could  gaze  upon  it  for  the 
first  time  without  feeling  that  they  had  attained  to  a 
higher  conception  of  the  awful  power  and  might  of  the 
U71 


Eternal.    This  point  was  the  last  residence  of  Francis 
Abbot,  the  young  Hermit  of  Niagara. 

The  American  Fall,  on  the  brink  of  which  we  stand,  is 
164  feet  in  perpendicular  height,  and  660  feet  wide  from 
the  mainland  to  Luna  Island.  The  smaller  Fall,  betweeu 
Luna  and  Goat  Island,  is  100  feet  wide.  Within  a  short 
distance  of  the  spot  where  we  stand  is  the 

FERRY-HOUSE. 

Here  there  is  a  curious  inclined  plane,  down  which  we 
descend  in  cars,  which  are  worked  by  means  of  a  water 
wheel  .and  a  rope ;  there  is  also  a  stair  connected  with 
this,  at  the  foot  of  which  the  ferry-boat  waits  to  convey 
us  over  to  the  Canadian  side,  whither  w^  intend  to  pro- 
ceed, because  one  of  the  finest  views  of  Niagara  is  had 
from  Table  Rock.  Ten  minutes  will  suffice  to  convey  us 
uver,  and  the  passage  is  quite  safe.  The  charge  is  25 
cents  ;  but  before  going,  let  us  hasten  to  the  foot  of  the 
American  Falls,  and  view  them /rom  below. 

Mr.  Charles  Dickens,  writing'  of  this  scene,  says : 
"  The  bank  is  very  steep,  and  was  slippery  with  rain  and 
linlf-melted  ice.  I  hardly  know  how  I  got  down,  bat  1 
was  soon  at  the  bottom,  and,  climbing;  with  two  English 


/« 
If^ 


ice  of  Francis 

k  we  stand,  is 
eet  wide  from 
Fall,  betweeu 
Within  a  short 


)wn  which  we 
^ns  of  a  water 
tnnected  with 
aits  to  convey 
intend  to  pro- 
iagara  is  had 
J  to  convey  us 
charge  is  25 
le  foot  of  the 

scene,  says : 

vith  rain  and 

dowB,  but  I 

two  English 


i 


?'5 


|i     I 


office 
brok 
spra; 
Ame 
teari 
no  i< 
immi 
Sei 
ingo 
and  ; 
view 
we  ai 
are  r 
mile 
and  I 
but  > 
aside 
the  r 
ofNi 


In 
quot( 


FALLS  OP  NIAGARA, 


11 


officers,  who  were  crossint;  and  had  joined  me,  over  some 
broken  rocks,  deafened  by  the  noise,  half-blinded  by  the 
spray,  and  wet  to  the  skin,  we  were  at  the  foot  of  the 
American  Fall.  I  could  see  an  immense  torrent  of  water 
tearing  headlong  down  from  some  great  height,  but  had 
no  idea  of  shape  or  situation,  or  anything  but  vague 
immensity." 

Seating  ourselves  in  the  ferry-boat,  we  are  soon  danc- 
ing on  the  agitated  waters,  and  gazing  in  profound  silence 
and  admiration  at  the  Falls,  which  from  this  point  of 
view  are  seen  to  great  advantage.  A  few  minutes,  and 
we  are  standing  on  the  soil  of  Canada.  Here  carriages 
are  ready  to  convey  us  to  Table  Rock,  little  more  than  a 
mile  distant.  Clifton  House,  not  far  from  the  landing, 
and  several  other  objects  of  interest,  claim  our  attention ; 
but  we  are  too  full  of  the  Great  Cataract  just  now  to  turn 
aside,  and  as  we  shall  pass  this  way  again  in  descending 
the  river,  we  will  hasten  on  to  behold  the  sublime  view 
of  Niagara  from  Table  Bock. 

TABLE  ROCK. 

In  alluding  to  this  view,  the  graphic  writer  above 
quoted  says  : — "  It  wa4  not  till  I  came  on  Table  Rock, 
(17) 


and  looked  on  the  fall  of  bright  green  water,  that  it 
came  upon  me  in  its  full  might  and  majesty.  The  Nia- 
gara was  for  ever  stamped  upon  my  heart,  an  image  of 
beauty,  to  remain  there,  changeless  and  indelible,  until 
its  pulses  cease  to  beat  for  ever. 

"Oh,  how  the  strife  and  trouble  of  daily  life  receded 
from  my  view  and  lessened  in  the  distance,  during  the 
ten  memorable  days  we  passed  on  that  enchanted  ground  1 
What  voices  spoke  from  out  the  thundering  water  I  what 
faces,  faded  from  the  earth,  looked  out  upon  me  from  its 
gleaming  depths  1  what  heavenly  promise  glistened  in 
those  angels'  tears,  the  drops  of  many  hues,  that  showered 
around,  and  twined  themselves  about  the  gorgeous  arches 
which  the  changing  rainbows  made  I  ...  To  wander  to 
and  fro  all  day,  and  see  the  cataract  from  all  points  ot 
view  ;  to  stand  upon  the  edge  of  the  great  Horse-Shoe 
Fall,  marking  the  hurried  water  gathering  strength  as  it 
approached  the  verge,  yet  seeming,  too,  to  pause  before 
it  shot  into  the  gulf  below  ;  to  gaze  from  tfas  river's  level 
up  at  the  torrent  as  it  came  streaming  down ;  to  climb 
the  neighbouring  heights  and  watch  it  through  the  trees, 
and  see  the  wreathing  water  in  the  rapids  hurrying  on  to 
take  its  fearful  plunge  ;  to  linger  in  the  shadow  of  the 


r^ 


12 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


.  1 
t 


hr 


solemn  rocks  three  miles  below,  watcliing  the  river  as, 
stirred  by  no  visible  cause,  it  heaved  and  eddied,  and 
awoke  the  echoes,  being  troubled  yet,  far  down  beneath 
the  surface,  by  its  giant  leap ;  to  have  Niagara  before 
me,  lighted  by  the  sun  and  by  the  moon,  red  in  the  day's 
decline  and  gray  as  evening  slowly  fell  upon  it ;  to  look 
upon  it  every  day,  and  wake  up  in  the  night  and  bear  its 
ceaseless  voice  :  this  was  enough. 

"I  think  in  every  quiet  season  now.  Still  do  those 
waters  roll  and  leap,  and  roar  and  tumble  all  day  long  ; 
still  are  the  rainbows  spanning  them  a  hundred  feet  be- 
low ;  still,  when  the  sun  is  on  them,  do  they  shine  and 
glow  like  molten  gold ;  still,  when  the  day  is  gloomy,  do 
they  fall  like  snow,  or  seem  to  crumble  away  like  the 
front  of  a  great  chalk  cli£f,  or  roll  down  the  rock  like 
dense  white  smoke.  But  always  does  the  mighty  stream 
appear  to  die  as  it  comes  down,  and  always  from  its  un- 
fathomable grave  arises  that  tremendous  ghost  of  spray 
and  mist  which  is  never  laid ;  which  has  haunted  this 
place  with  the  same  dread  solemnity  since  darkness 
brooded  on  the  deep,  and  that  first  flood  before  the 
Deluge— light— came  rushing  on  creation  at  the  word  of 
God." 

(17) 


But  no  words,  however  appropriate— no  combination 
of  ideas,  however  felicitous,  can  do  justice  to  Niagara ; 
and  those  who  are  wending  their  way  thither  will  need 
BO  description  :  yet  it  is  satisfactory  to  know  the  feelings 
and  thoughts  of  those  who  have  gone  before  us. 

Table  Rock  is  no  longer  the  extensive  platform  that  it 
once  was,  large  portions  of  it  having  fallen  from  time  to 
time.  It  overhangs  the  terrible  caldron  close  to  the 
Uorse-Shoe  Fall,  and  the  view  from  it,  as  already  described, 
is  most  sublime.  In  1818,  a  mass  of  160  feet  long  and  40 
feet  wide  broke  off  and  fell  into  the  boiling  flood ;  and  in 
1828  three  immense  masses  fell  with  a  shock  like  an  earth- 
quake. Again,  in  1829,  another  fragment  fell,  and  in 
1850  a  portion  of  about  200  feet  in  length  and  100  feet 
thick.  On  one  of  those  occasions,  some  forty  or  fifty  per- 
sons had  been  standing  on  the  rock  a  few  minutes  before 
it  fell  I  The  work  of  demolition  still  goes  on,  for  another 
portion  of  Table  Bock  fell  in  1857.  In  1867,  a  large 
crack  or  seam  having  formed  around  it  near  the  road,  it 
was  deemed  unsafe,  and  the  Canadian  Government  caused 
it  to  be  blasted  away,  and  now  all  that  remains  of  the 
once  famous  Table  Rock  is  a  huge  mass  of  rock  at  the 
edge  of  the  river  below  the  bank. 


'.;;'//■  /,'«•■■■ 


no  combiuatioii 
;ice  to  Niagara ; 
lither  will  need 
aow  the  feelings 
)re  UB. 

platform  that  it 

en  from  time  to 

on  close  to  tlie 

ready  described, 

feet  long  and  40 

ig  flood ;  and  in 

ck  like  an  eartb- 

gnt  fell,  and  in 

th  and  100  feet 

)rty  or  fifty  per- 

minutes  before 

on,  for  another 

1  1867,  a  large 

lear  the  road,  it 

ernment  caused 

remains  of  the 

of  rock  at  the 


HORSE     SHOE    FALL. 


fc^- 


I 


t 


PALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


13 


THE  MAID  or  THE  MIST. 

At  one  time  a  little  steamer  was  wout  to  start  from 
he  landing,  close  to  the  Suspension  Bridge,  two  miles 
below  Niagara,  and,  ascending   the  river,  passed  the 

merican  Falls,  and  penetrated  boldly  into  the  dense 
loud  of  mist  close  to  the  foot  of  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall. 

he  spectator  standing  on  the  verge  of  Table  Rock,  and 
looking  down,  might  then  have  seen  the  little  steamer 
Ibaffling  with  the  stormy  waters.  So  completely  was  she 
enveloped  in  the  mist,  that  waterproof  garments  were 
provided  for  those  who  chose  to  remain  on  her  deck.  The 
iiteamer  was  built  expressly  for  this  brief  voyage,  and  is 
an  excellent  boat  of  170  tons  burden,  with  an  engine  of 
above  100  horse-power. 

The  owners  of  this  little  steamer  having  found  her  an 
unprofitable  speculation,  she  was  sold  to  a  Montreal  firm 
with  the  condition  that  she  should  be  safely  navigated 
through  the  rapids  and  the  whirlpool  (see  p.  30).  This 
dangerous  experiment  was  undertaken  by  J.  R.  Robinson, 
with  but  two  assistants.  The  danger  was  considered  so 
great  that  the  brave  men  who  undertook  it  could  not  get 
any  office  to  insure  their  lives  for  a  cent.  It  was,  how- 
(17) 


ever,  accomplished  in  safety,  with  no  other  injury  to  the 
vessel  than  the  falling  of  her  funnel  on  the  deck,  which 
occurred  just  before  entering  the  whirlpool,  at  the  river's 
narrowest  point,  where  it  is  estimated  that  the  torrent 
rushes  at  a  speed  of  twenty-five  miles  an  hour.  It  was 
a  wonderful  feat  of  navigation,  and  created  intense 
excitement  for  miles  around. 

THE  HORSE-SHOE  FALL. 

The  view  here  is  awfully  grand.  As  we  gaze  upwards 
at  the  frowning  cliff  that  seems  tottering  to  its  fall,  and 
pass  under  the  thick  curtain  of  water — so  near  that  it 
seems  as  if  we  could  touch  it— and  hear  the  hissing  spray, 
and  are  stunned  by  the  deafening  roar  that  issues  from 
the  misty  vortex  at  our  feet,  an  indescribable  feeling  of 
awe  steals  over  us,  and  we  are  more  than  ever  impressed 
with  the  tremendous  magnificence  of  Niagara.  Behind 
our  narrow  footpath  the  precipice  of  the  Horse-Shoe 
Fall  rises  perpendicularly  to  a  height  of  90  feet ;  at  our 
feet  the  cliff  descends  about  70  feet  into  a  turmoil  of 
bursting  foam  ;  in  front  is  the  liquid  curtain  which, 
though  ever  passing  onward,  never  unveils  this  wildest 
of  Nature's  caverns. 


14 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


i'i 


1 1 


'  i 


VIEW  BELOW  TABLE  BUCK. 


We  do  nr-t  ran  much  danger  in  going  under  the  Falls 
if  we  are  moderately  careful,  and  hundreds  of  ladies  do 
so  every  year.  But  accidents  have  happened  more  than 
once  to  reckless  travellers.  To  the  nervous  and  the  timid 
we  would  say,  Go  under  the  Falls  by  all  means,  and  fear 
not.  To  the  daring  and  the  bold  we  would  say,  Go,  but  be- 
ware. At  the  same  time  it  is  right  to  mention  that  portions 
of  Table  Rock  are  still  expected  to  fall  every  year,  so  that 
those  who  go  under  the  Falls  must  run  the  risk  of  this. 

The  volume  of  water  that  gushes  over  the  Horse-Shoe 
Fall  is  enormous.  It  is  estimated  that  the  sheet  is  fully 
20  feet  thick  in  the  centre,  an  estimate  which  was  corro- 
borated in  a  singular  manner  in  1829.  A  ship  named 
the  Detroit,  having  been  condemned,  was  bought  and 
sent  over  the  Falls.  On  board  were  put  a  live  bear,  a 
deer,  a  buffalo,  and  several  smaller  animals.  The  vessel 
was  almost  knocked  to  pieces  in  the  rapids,  but  a  large 
portion  of  her  hull  went  over  entire.  She  drew  18  feet 
water,  but  did  not  strike  the  cliff  as  she  took  the  awful 
plunge. 

PROSPECT  HOUSE 

Stands  in  the  rear  of  Table  Rock.    The  view  from  the 
I  summit  of  this  building  is  magnificent. 


^t 


(17) 


ider  the  Falls 
i  of  ladies  du 
led  more  than 
and  the  timid 
ans,  and  fear 
y,  Go,  but  bt- 
1  that  portions 

year,  so  that 
risk  of  this, 
e  Horse-Shoe 
sheet  is  fully 
!ch  was  corro- 
L  ship  named 
I  bought  and 
a  live  bear,  a 
The  vessel 
i,  but  a  large 

drew  18  feet 
K>k  the  awful 


iew  from  the 


■HH[t    SlSTtBS   X    COAT     ISLAND     fROM    CANADA    SlDl 


poin 
the 


T 
the 
islai 
whi 

F 
was 
auii 
boai 
rive 
shoi 
for 
hina 
of  1 
des 
lik( 
Sh< 
isla 
wit 


FALLS  OF  mAGARA. 


15 


A  fbw  hundred  yards  above  Prospect  House  there  is  a 
point  from  which  we  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  rapids  and 
the  islands  uanied 

THE  THREE  SISTERS. 

They  are  seen  in  the  distance  lying  close  together  at 
the  head  of  Goat  Island.  These  hitherto  inaccessible 
islands  are  now  connected  by  substantial  foot  bridges,  from 
which  the  grandest  view  of  the  rapids  is  to  be  obtained. 

From  one  of  these  Sisters  a  gentleman  named  Allen 
was  rescued  by  the  gallant  Mr.  J.  R.  Robinson  in  the 
summer  of  1841.  Mr.  Allen  '  .iJ  started  alone  in  his 
boat  for  the  village  of  Chippewa,  nd  in  the  middle  of  the 
river  broke  one  of  his  oars.  Being  unable  to  gain  the 
shore,  he  endeavoured  with  the  remaining  oar  to  steer 
for  tiie  head  of  Goat  Island,  but  the  rapid  current  swept 
him  past  this  point.  As  he  approached  the  outer  island 
of  the  Three  Sisters,  he  steered  with  the  cool  energy  of 
despair  toward  it  and  leaped  ashore,  while  his  boat  sprang 
like  a  lightening  flash  down  the  rapid  and  over  the  Horse- 
Shoe  Fall.  For  two  days  Mr.  Allen  remained  on  the 
island,  and  then,  fortunately,  succeeded  in  making  a  fire 
with  some  matches  he  happened  to  have  in  his  pocket. 
(17) 


Crowds  of  people  assembled  to  assist  in  and  witness  the 
rescue,  which  was  accomplished  by  Robinson,  who,  hav- 
ing managed  to  pass  a  rope  from  island  to  island,  readied 
him  with  a  skiff. 


\  t 


■ 

r 


.)  I 


16 


FALLS  OP  NIAGARA. 


Another  narrow  escape  was  made  here  by  a  father  and 
son  in  the  year  1850.  The  son,  a  boy  of  ten  years  of  age, 
was  paddling  his  father — who  was  drunk  at  the  time — 
over  to  their  home  on  Grand  Island.  The  father  was 
unable  to  guide  the  frail  canoe,  which  was  carried  into 
the  rapids,  and  descended  with  fearful  rapidity  towards 
the  Falls.  The  wretched  father  could  do  nothing  to  save 
himself;  but  the  gallant  boy  struggled  with  the  energy 
of  a  hero,  and  succeeded  in  forcing  the  canoe  between 
Goat  Island  and  the  Three  Sisters.  Here  they  were  in 
imminent  danger  of  passing  over  the  little  cascade  be- 
tween these  Islands,  but,  providentially,  as  they  neared 
it  a  wave  upset  the  canoe  and  left  them  struggling  in  the 
water.  The  plac«  was  shallow,  the  boy  gained  a  footing, 
and  seizing  his  father  by  the  collar,  dragged  him  to  the 
shore,  where  hundreds  of  anxious  spectators  received 
them  with  shouts  of  joy. 

Oull  Island  is  a  small  island  just  above  the  Horse-Shoe 
Fall.     It  has  never  been  trodden  by  man. 

About  two  miles  higher  up  the  river  is 


THE  BURNING  SPRING. 

This  curious  spring  is  very  interesting. 
(17) 


The  water, 


being  charged  with  sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas,  takes  fire 
when  a  light  is  applied  to  it,  and  burns  with  a  pale 
bluish  flame. 

The  Battle  cj  Chippewa  was  fought  in  this  neighbour- 
hood  on  the  5th  July  1814. 

In  order  to  gratify  the  visitor's  natural  desire  to  see 
Niagara  from  the  most  striking  points  cf  view,  we  have 
hurried  him  somewhat  abruptly  to  the  Canada  side.  We 
will  now  retrace  our  steps  to  the  ferry,  and  crossing  over, 
visit  Goat  Island  and  its  neighbourhood. 

The  flrst  object  that  claims  our  attention  as  we  return 
down  the  left  bank  of  the  river  is 

THE  MUSEUM, 

Which  stands  at  the  top  of  the  bank  near  to  Table  Rock, 
and  is  well  worth  visiting.  It  is  arranged  so  as  to  repre- 
sent a  forest  scene,  and  contains  a  fine  collection  of  birds, 
beasts,  and  fishes,  besides  a  camera-obscura.  Charge  for 
admission,  25  cents. 

A  short  distance  below  this  house  a  terrible  accident 
occurred  in  1844.  A  lady  named  Miss  Martha  K. 
Rngg  fell  over  the  bank,  and  descending  a  depth  of  115 
feet,  was  dashed  on  the  sharp  rocks  below.    Slie  wab 


i-'UihinUiiriii: 


»I»(.AK.\     HI  VI  R     lU  I  11*     '  Hf.    I  6  I  1  ' 


1 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


17 


alive  when  picked  up,  bat  expired  a  few  hours  after- 
wards. 
Our  Engraviog  of  the 

AMERICAN    FALLS 

Exhibits  the  view  as  seen  from  the  Canadian  side  directly 
opposite.  Behind  the  Falls  are  seen  the  splendid  Ame- 
rican Hotels,  the  Cataract  House,  the  International,  &c., 
with  the  woods  extending  towards  Point  View.  On  the 
right  are  the  Centre  Fall  and  the  wooden  stairs  leading 
to  the  Cave  of  the  Winds. 
From  this  position  we  have  also  a  fine  prospect  of 

NIAGARA    RIVER    BELOW    THE    FALLS. 

Our  Engraving,  taken  from  a  photograph,  gives  an 
excellent  and  correct  representation  of  this  view.  The 
swollen  and  agitated  stream  hurries  onward,  after  its 
mighty  leap,  between  steep  cliffs,  clothed  on  the  summit 
with  wood.  On  the  left  of  the  Picture  we  see  the  road 
winding  along  the  top  of  the  bank  towards  the  splendid 
hotel  named  Clifton  House;  groupsofpilgrims  to  the  shrine 
of  the  mighty  Cataract  of  the  West  enliven  the  scene;  and 
perchance  the  ferry-boat  shoots  out  from  its  moorings  as 
(17) 


we  pass,  and  dances  like  a  cork  upon  the  troubled 
waters. 

A  walk  of  about  half  an  hour  along  the  bank  of  the 
river  brings  us  to  Clifton  House,  a  magnificent  hotel,  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  which  is  the  ground  where  the 
Battte  of  Lundy  Lane  was  fought.  It  occupies  a  com- 
manding position  on  the  top  of  the  bank,  at  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  Ferry  Landing- Place.  The  view  of  the 
American  and  Horse-Shoe  Falls  from  this  hotel  is  ex- 
ceedingly fine,  and  the  accommodation  is  excellent.  The 
gardens  around  it  are  a  great  improvement,  and  it  has 
concert  rooms  and  large  public  saloons.  The  Erie  and 
Ontario  Railroad,  which  passes  close  to  it,  connects  at 
Chippewa,  a  village  about  three  miles  up  the  river,  with 
the  steamer  to  Buffalo,  and  runs  down  the  river  to  the  vil- 
lage of  Niagara,  at  its  mouth,  whence  the  Lake  Ontario 
steamers  convey  passengers  to  the  River  St.  Lawrence. 

Having  thus  cast  a  rapid  glance  at  the  salient  points  on 
the  Canada  side,  we  may  either  continue  our  walk  for  a  mile 
further,  to  the  Suspension  Bridge,  or  recross  the  Ferry  to 
inspect  the  Falls  more  narrowly.  Choosing  the  latter  course, 
we  cross  in  the  boat,  re-ascend  the  inclined-plane  rail- 
way, hurry  through  the  Grove,  and  cross  the  bridge  to— 


) 


S 


18 


PALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


BATH     ISLAND. 

Here  was  a  bathin<T  establishment,  but  it  is  not 
How  ia  operation.  Here  may  be  purchased  any  amount 
of  Indian  curiosities.  The  largest  paper-mill  in  the 
United  States  is  on  this  island.  It  belongs  to  L.  C. 
Woodruff,  of  Buffalo.  A  little  hitiher  up  are  two  smaller 
islets  named  Ship  and  Bri{;  Islands.  The  former  is  also 
named  Lovers'  Retreat,  and  was  connected  with  Bath 
Island  by  a  slender  bridge,  which  was  washed  away  by 
ice  and  high  water.  Looking  down  the  river,  we  see 
several  small  islets,  most  of  which  aie  more  or  less  con- 
nected with  thrilling  incidents  of  danger,  escape,  or 
death;  for  graphic  details  of  which  we  refer  the  traveller 
to  the  guides,  who  are  learned  in  local  tradition. 

Crossing  the  bridge  at  the  other  end  of  Bath  Island, 
we  reach 

GOAT    OR    IRIS    ISLAND 

This  ibiand  is  half  a  mile  long,  by  a  quarter  broad,  and 

contains  about  70  acres.     It  divides  the  Falls,  is  330 

yards  wide,  and  is  heavily  wooded.    In  1770  a  man  of 

tlve  name  of  Stedmau  placed  some  goats  here  to  pasture  ■* 

U7) 


hence  the  name.  Its  other  name,  Iris,  is  derived  from 
the  number  of  beautiful  rainbows  that  are  so  frequently 
seen  near  it.  It  is  the  property  of  the  Porter  family, 
and  to  them  the  public  are  indebted  for  the  facilities 
which  are  afforded  them  in  visiting  the  Falls.  Qoat 
Island  was  visited  long  before  the  bridges  were  con- 
structed, but  the  visitors  were  not  numerous,  the  risk 
l)eiug  very  grea|k  The  dates  1771, 1772, 1779,  under  the 
names  of  several  strangers,  were  found  cut  in  a  beech- 
tree  near  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall. 

Three  paths  diverge  from  the  house  on  your  left,  in 
which  Indian  curiosities  are  sold;  the  one  to  the  left 
leads  to  the  head  of  the  island;  the  centre  road  cuts 
right  across  it;  and  that  on  the  right  conducts  to  the 
Falls.  Let  us  follow  the  last  mentioned  through  the 
trees  that  line  the  margin  of  the  rapids.  In  a  few 
minutes  we  reach  a  spot  named  Hog's  Back,  from  which 
we  have  a  good  view  of  the  Central  and  American  Falls 
and  the  river  below,  rushing  on  as  if  in  exultation  after 
its  terrific  leap.  Dr.  Hungerford  of  West  Troy  was 
killed  just  under  this  point  in  1889,  by  the  falling  of  a 
portion  of  the  cliff. 

Three  Profiles,  formed  by  the  Falls  in  this  oeighbour- 


finu'hs  .\in"if'*it-rt! 


i 


I 


NIACARIk    RIVER    LO  OKI  N  C  TOWA  RD5    LAK(    ONTARIO. 


r  t 


m 


>■<! 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


19 


hood,  are  pointed  out,  but  they  exist  chiefly  iu  the  ima- 

giuation ! 

That  small  island  to  our  right,  on  the  verge  of  the 

Falls,  is 

LUNA   ISLAND; 

So  called  because  it  is  the  best  point  from  Uliich  to  view 
the  beautiful  lunar  bow.  A  narrow  bridge  connects 
this  island  with  Goat  Island. 

The  lunar  bow  is  only  seen  for  a  short  time  in  the 
month,  when  the  moon  is  full  and  sufficiently  high  in 
the  heavens. 

The  solar  bow  is  always  visible  when  the  sun  shines 
on  the  Falls. 

It  is  said  by  some  that  Luna  Island  trembles ;  which 
ia  not  improbable.  • 

A  very  melancholy  accident  occurred  at  the  northern 
extremity  of  this  island  in  the  year  1849.  The  family  of 
Mr.  Deforest  of  Buffalo  visited  the  Falls  on  the  21st 
June  of  that  year,  along  with  a  young  man  named  Charles 
Addington.  They  were  about  to  leave  this  island  when 
Mr.  Addington  playfully  seized  Annette,  the  little 
daughter  of  Mr.  Deforest,  in  bis  arms,  and  held  her 
over  the  edge  of  the  bank,  exclaiming,  "  I  am  going  to 


throw  yon  in."  A  sudden  impulse  of  fear  caused  the 
child  to  bound  from  bis  grasp  and  fall  into  the  rushinf:; 
stream.  With  a  loud  cry  of  horror  the  young  man  sprang 
in  to  save  her,  and  ere  the  stricken  parents  could  utter 
a  cry,  they  both  went  over  the  Falls  t  The  next  day  the 
mangled  remains  of  the  child  were  discovered  in  the  Cave 
of  the  Winds,  but  Addington's  body  was  not  found  for 
several  days  afterwards. 

THE   CENTRE    FALL, 

Over  which  we  pass  in  our  return  to  Goat  Island,  although 
a  mere  ribbon  of  white  water  when  seen  from  a  short  dis- 
tance  in  contrast  with  the  Great  Falls,  is  by  no  means  un. 
worthy  of  notice.  It  is  100  feetwide,  and  is  a  very  graceful 
sheet  of  water.  Proceeding  along  the  road  a  short  dis- 
tance, we  come  to 

Bl DOLE'S  STAIRS. 
These  were  erected  in  1823  by 'Mr.  Biddle,  president  of 
the  United  States  Bank,  for  the  purpose  of  enabling 
visitors  to  descend  the  perpendicular  precipice.  The 
stairs  are  firmly  secured  to  the  cliff,  and  are  said  to  be 
quite  safe.  They  are  80  feet  high.  The  total  descent 
from  the  top  of  the  bank  to  the  bottom  is  185  feet. 


20 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


■II,' 


Between  this  point  and  the  Centre  Fall  is  the  spot 
where  the  celebrated  Sam  Patch  made  his  famous  leaps. 
Sam  made  two  leaps  in  1829.  A  long  ladder  was  placed 
at  the  foot  of  the  rock  and  fastened  with  ropes  in  such 
a  manner  that  the  top  projected  over  the  water.  A  plat- 
form was  then  laid  from  the  top  of  the  ladder  to  the 
edge  of  the  bank  above.  Hundreds  of  thousands  of 
spectators  crowded  every  point  within  sight  of  the  place 
on  both  shores,  eager  to  behold  the  extraordinary  spec- 
tacle of  a  man  "  jumping  over  the  Falls."  Sam  walked 
along  the  giddy  platform,  made  his  bow,  and  went  down, 
feet  first,  97  feet  into  the  river. 

Not  content  with  this  achievement,  Sam  Patch  after- 
wards made  a  higher  leap  at  the  Genesee  Falls.  Again, 
at  the  same  place,  he  made  another  jump,  from  the 
height  of  125  feet !  That  was  his  last.  The  poor  fellow 
never  rose  again,  and  his  body  has  never  been  found. 

It  is  frequently  asked  by  visitors  where  the  intrepid 
EUrndin  crossed  the  river  on  his  rope.  In  1859  his  rope 
was  stretched  from  bank  to  bank  about  one  mile  below 
the  Falls.  The  length  of  rope  at  this  place  was  about 
1200  feet.  In  1860  he  removed  his  rope  to  a  point  about 
200  feet  below  the  Old  Suspension  Bridge.  The  width 
(17) 


here  was  900  feet.     It  was  at  this  point  he  performed 

his  wonderful  feats  before  the  Prince  of  Wales.    Since 

then  two  persons,  Favini  and  Harry  Leslie,  have  per* 

formed  similar  feats. 

Before  descending  Biddle's  Stairs,  let  us  pass  on  until 

we  reach  the  extremity  of  the  island,  and  cross  the  bridge 

to  the 

TERRAPIN   TOWER. 

This  tower  occupies  a  singular  and  awful  position.  A 
few  scattered  masses  of  rock  lie  on  the  very  brink  of  the 
Qreat  Fall,  seeming  as  if  unable  to  maintain  their  posi- 
tion against  the  tremendous  rush  of  water.  Upon  these 
rocks  the  tower  is  built !  It  was  erected  in  1833  by 
Judge  Porter ;  and  from  the  summit  we  obtain  the  most 
magnificent  view  that  can  be  conceived— the  rapids  above 
rolling  tumultuously  towards  you — the  green  water  of 
the  mighty  Falls  at  your  feet— below  you  the  hissing 
caldron  of  spray,  and  the  river  with  its  steep  banks  be- 
yond— in  fact,  the  whole  range  of  the  Falls  themselves, 
and  the  world  of  raging  waters  around  them,  are  seen 
from  this  commanding  point  of  view.  The  tower  is  45 
feet  high. 

The  bridge  leading  to  this  tower  ii  osoally  wet  with 


■iMa**'w^'<ii|iff Ill   ii     »^^a^»^^ 


TERRAPIN    TOWER*     HORSE    SHOE    FALL    FROM    COAT    ISLAND 


I 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


21 


spray,  so  that  we  must  be  careful  in  crossing.  In  1852 
a  gentleman  fell  from  this  bridge,  and  was  carried  to  the 
edge  of  the  Fall ;  fortunately  he  stuck  between  two  rocks, 
and  was  rescued  by  two  Americans,  who  threw  lines 
towards  him,  which  he  fastened  round  his  body,  and  was 
thus  drawn  ashore. 

A  timber  formerly  projecting  over  the  dread  abyss  was 
the  usual  evening  promenade  of  the  eccentric  Francis 
Abbot.  In  1852  two  enormous  pieces  of  the  precipice 
here,  reaching  from  the  top  to  the  bottom,  broke  off  and 
fell  with  a  crash  like  thunder. 

While  gazing  at  the  sublime  sight  here,  and  taking  in 

at  a  single  sweep  the  whole  scene  of  the  glorious  Falls  of 

Niagara,  let  us  pause  a  while  and  reflect  upon  the  sad 

fate  of 

FRANCIS   ABBOT, 

THE  BBBMIT  Or  THB  FALLS. 

In  the  month  of  June  1829  a  tall,  gentlemanly,  but 
haggard-looking  younfp  man,  made  his  appearance  at  the 
village  of  the  Falls.  He  brought  with  him  a  large  port- 
folio and  several  books  and  musical  instruments.  For  a 
few  weeks  he  paid  daily  and  nightly  visits  to  the  most 
interesting  points  of  Niagara,  and  at  length  became  so 
(17) 


fascinated  with  the  beauty  and  sublimity  of  the  scene, 
that  he  resolved  to  take  up  his  abode  there  altogether ! 
No  one  knew  whence  the  young  stranger  came.  Those 
who  conversed  with  him  asserted  that  he  was  talented 
and  engaging  in  his  manners  and  address;  but  he  was 
not  communicative,  and  shunned  the  company  of  man. 
At  the  end  of  a  few  weeks  he  applied  for  permission  to 
build  for  himself  a  cottage  on  one  of  the  Three  Sisters ; 
but  circumstances  preventing  this,  he  took  up  his  resi- 
dence in  an  old  cottage  on  Goat  Island.  Here  the  young 
hermit  spent  his  days  and  nights  in  solitary  contempla- 
tion of  the  great  cataract;  and  when  winter  came,  the 
dwellers  on  the  mainland  saw  the  twinkle  of  his  wood 
fire,  and  listened  wonderingly  to  the  sweet  tones  of  music 
that  floated  over  the  troubled  waters  and  mingled  with 
the  thunder  of  the  Falls. 

This  wonderful  recluse  seemed  never  to  rest.  At  all 
hours  of  day  and  night  he  might  be  seen  wandering 
round  the  object  of  his  adoration.  Not  content  with 
gazing  at  the  rapids,  he  regularly  bathed  in  the  turbulent 
waters,  and  the  bathing-place  of  Francis  Abbot  is  still 
pointed  out  to  visitors.  At  the  Terrapin  Bridge  there 
is  a  single  beam  of  timber  which  projected  its  tremulous 


22 


FALLS  OP  NIAGARA. 


end  about  ten  feet  over  the  roaring  flood.  Along  this 
the  hermit  was  in  the  habit  of  walking.  He  did  so 
without  the  smallest  sign  of  fear — with  a  firm,  bold  step, 
proceeding  to  the  very  end,  turning  on  his  heel  and  walk- 
ing back  again.  One  day  in  June  1831  he  went  to  bathe  in 
the  river  below  the  Falls.  Not  long  afterwards  his  clothes 
were  found  still  lying  on  the  bank,  but  Francis  Abbot 
was  gone.  The  waters  which  he  had  so  recklessly  dared 
had  claimed  him  as  their  own  at  last.  His  body  was 
found  ten  days  afterwards  at  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
whence  it  was  conveyed  to  Niagara  and  buried  close  to 
the  thundering  Fall  he  loved  so  well. 

Returning  to  BideUe'i  Stairs,  let  us  descend,  and  tak- 
ing the  road  to  the  left,  go  view  the 

HORSESHOE    FALL    FROM    BELOW    GOAT    ISLAND. 

The  sight  is  terrific.  The  frowning  cliff  seems  about 
to  fall  on  us,  and  we  are  stunned  by  the  roar  of  the 
water  as  it  falls  headlong  on  the  broken  rocks,  bursts 
into  white  foam,  and  re-ascends  in  clouds  of  spray.  Ter- 
rapin Bridge  and  Tower,  now  diminished  by  distance, 
seem  about  to  be  swept  over  the  Fall,  above  the  edge  of 
which  we  see  the  trees  of  Canada.  Portions  of  the  rock 
(17) 


fall  here  occasionally,  so  that  the  passage  is  not  altogether 
unattended  with  danger. 

Returning  to  the  foot  of  the  stairs,  we  follow  the  road 
to  the  right  until  we  reach  the  famous 

CAVE  OF  THE  WINDS. 
It  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  rock  between  Goat  and 
Luna  Islands,  and  is  considered  by  some  to  be  one  of  the 
finest  and  most  wonderful  sights  on  the  American  side. 
Here  it  is  necessary  to  put  on  waterproof  dresses  and 
obtain  a  guide — both  of  which  are  at  all  times  at  our 
command.  The  cave  has  been  formed  by  the  action  or 
the  water  on  the  soft  substratum  of  the  precipice,  which 
has  been  washed  away  and  the  limestone  rock  left  arch- 
ing overhead  30  feet  beyond  the  base.  In  front  the  trans- 
parent Falls  form  a  beautiful  curtain.  In  consequence 
of  the  tremendous  pressure  on  the  atmosphere,  this  cave 
is  filled  with  perpetual  storms,  and  the  war  of  couflictini 
elements  is  quite  chaotic.  A  beautiful  rainbow,  quite 
circular  in  form,  quivers  amid  the  driving  spray  when 
the  sun  shines.  The  cave  is  100  feet  wide,  130  feet  high, 
and  upwards  of  80  feet  deep.  Along  the  floor  of  this 
remarkable  cavern  the  spray  is  hurled  with  considerabla 


FALLS  OP  NIAGARA. 


23 


violence,  so  that  it  strikes  the  walls  and  curls  upwards 
along  the  roof,  thus  causing  the  rough  turmoil  which  has 
procured  for  this  place  its  title  of  the  Care  of  the  Winds. 
It  is  much  visited  by  ladies  as  well  as  gentlemen,  and  a 
neat  building  has  been  erected  on  the  top  of  the  high 
bank  at  the  approach  to  the  Biddle  Stairs,  which  is 
divided  into  dressing-rooms  for  persons  visiting  the  cave. 

HEAD    OF    GOAT    ISLAND 

The  road  runs  quite  round  it.  Turning  to  the  right, 
in  the  direction  of  Terrapin  Bridge,  we  observe  that  the 
rock  is  wearing  away  fast  here.  In  1843  an  enormous 
mass  fell  from  the  precipice  with  a  tremendous  crash, 
and  the  rock  lies  near  the  foot  of  the  stairs. 

Passing  on  along  the  edge  of  the  rapids,  we  come  to 
the  Three  Sisters  (already  described) ;  and  here,  between 
M088  Island  and  the  shore,  is  a  small  but  beautiful  Fall, 
named  the  Hermit's  Cascade.  Hither  the  unfortunate 
Abbot  was  wont  to  repair  daily  to  enjoy  a  shower-bath 
of  Nature's  own  constructing.  Proceeding  onward,  we 
reach  the  head  of  Iris  Island,  and  the  cottage  in  which 
Abbot  lived  before  removing  to  bis  last  residence,  at 
Point  View. 
(17) 


In  June  of  1854  Mr.  Robinson  performed  a  daring  feat 
here.  A  sand-scow,  or  flat-bottomed  barge,  having 
broken  loose  from  its  moorings,  lodged  on  the  rocks  near 
the  head  of  the  island.  There  was  property  on  board 
which  Mr.  Robinson  o£fered  to  save.  Embarking  with 
his  son  in  a  skiff,  be  shot  out  into  the  rapid,  and  was 
carried  with  terrible  swiftness  down  towards  the  scow, 
upon  which  the  son  sprang  as  they  flew  past,  and  very 
cleverly  fastened  the  skiff  to  it.  Having  obtained  the 
goods  for  which  they  ran  so  great  risk,  the  fearless  pair 
pushed  off  once  more,  and  flew  like  an  arrow  on  .the 
surging  billows  towards  the  Three  Sisters.  Every  one 
thought  their  doom  was  sealed,  for  they  were  flying  to- 
wards the  small  cascade,  to  go  over  which  would  have 
been  certain  death.  But  on  its  very  verge  they  swept 
adroitly  into  an  eddy,  and  succeeded  in  gaining  the  second 
Sister.  Here  they  carried  their  skiff  to  the  foot  of  the 
island,  where  they  launched  it,  and,  plying  tbeir  oars 
with  vigour,  made  a  bold  sweep  down  the  rapids,  and 
gained  the  shore  of  Gcat  Island  in  safety. 

The  view  from  the  head  of  Ooat  Island  is  very  fine,  the 
wild  river  and  its  environs  being  seen  for  a  considerable 
distance.     Navy  Island,  celebrated  in  the  history  of 


<i 


04 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


Border  warfare ;  the  site  of  old  Fort  Schlosser  on  the 
American  side ;  the  town  of  Chippewa  on  the  Canada 
shore;  Grand  Island,  &c.,  are  all  visible  from  this  point. 
As  we  gaze  at  the  wild  rapid,  we  wonder  at  the  hardi- 
hood of  those  who  ventured  to  descend  to  the  spot  on 
which  we  now  stand,  before  the  bridge  was  built.  Yet 
this  was  occasionally  done,  at  s.ach  risk,  in  Indian 
canoes.  It  is  said  that  any  one  who  falls  into  the  rapids 
a  mile  above  the  Falls  is  hurried  to  almost  certain  de- 
struction ;  and  there  are  many  melancholy  instances  of 
the  kind. 

A  few  years  ago  an  Indian  attempted,  while  in  a  state 
of  partial  intoxication,  to  cross  the  river  iu  his  canoe. 
He  was  drawn  into  the  rapids,  and,  despite  his  utmost 
efiforts,  failed  to  reach  the  shore.  Knowing  that  his 
doom  was  fixed,  he  took  a  draught  of  spirits,  and  then, 
lying  down  at  full  length  in  the  canoe,  vas  hurled  over 
the  Falls  into  eternity  ! 

In  proceeding  down  the  island  we  pass  a  spot  where 
there  are  several  graves,  out  of  which  human  remains 
have  been  dug.  They  were  found  in  a  sitting  position, 
and  it  is  supposed  they  were  those  of  the  ancient  Indian 
warriors  who  first  owned  the  land  around  the  Falls. 
(17) 


NIAGARA   IN  WINTER. 

In  all  its  phases  this  wondrous  cataract  is  sublime,  but 
in  winter,  when  its  dark-green  waters  contrast  with  the 
pure  white  snow,  and  its  frosty  vapour  spouts  up  into 
the  chill  atmosphere  from  a  perfect  chaos  of  ice  and  foam, 
there  is  a  perfection  of  savage  grandeur  about  it  which 
cannot  be  realized  in  the  green  months  of  summer. 

At  this  season  Ice  is  the  ruling  genius  of  the  spot.  The 
spray  which  bursts  from  the  thundering  cataract  encrusts 
every  object  with  a  coat  of  purest  dazzling  white.  The 
trees  bend  gracefully  under  its  weight,  as  if  in  silent 
homage  to  the  Spirit  of  the  Palls.  Every  twig  is  covered, 
every  bough  is  laden ;  and  those  parts  of  the  rocks  and 
trees  on  which  the  delicate  frost-work  will  not  lie,  stand 
out  in  bold  contrast.  At  the  foot  of  the  Falls  block  rises 
on  block  in  wild  confusion,  and  the  cold,  dismal-looking 
water,  hurries  its  green  floods  over  the  brink,  and  roars 
hoarsely  as  it  rushes  into  the  vortex  of  dazzling  white 
below.  The  trees  on  Goat  Island  seem  partially  buried; 
the  bushes  around  have  almost  disappeared ;  the  honsei 
seem  to  sink  under  their  ponderous  coverings  of  white ; 
every  rail  is  edged  with  it,  every  point  and  pinnacle  is 


Terrapin  Tower 


NIAGARA  IN   VIIINTER    FROM     CANADA    SIDE 


r 


i 


BALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


25 


capped  with  it;  and  the  dark  form  of  the  Terrapin 
Tower  stands  like  a  lone  sentinel  guarding  this  'Rcene  of 
magnificent  desolation. 

When  the  sun  shines,  all  becomes  radiant  with  glitter- 
ing gems ;  and  the  mind  is  almost  overwhelmed  ^ith  the 
combined  effects  of  ezcessiTe  brilliancy  and  ext^essive 
grandeur.    But  such  a  scene  cannot  be  described.  '• 

"  From  age  to  age — in  winter's  frost,  or  Bummer's  sultry 
beam. 
By  day,  by  night,  without  a  pause — thy  waves  with  loud 

acclaim, 
!ji  ceaseless  sounds,  have  still  proclaimed  the  great  Eternal's 
name." 

Our  View  is  taken  from  the  Canadian  side,  a  short  dis- 
tance above  Prospect  House. 

During  the  winter  immense  masses  of  ice  descend  the 
river  from  Lake  Brie,  and  form  an  Ice  Bridge  between 
the  Falls  and  New  Iris  Bridge.  Hundreds  of  foot  pas- 
sengers cross  this  bridge  daring  the  months  of  February 
and  March. 

NIAGARA  BY  MOONLIGHT. 
!.  %-<'si.  rain  to  attempt  a  description  of  this  magical 

;;?3 


scene.  Every  one  knows  the  peculiar  softness  and  the 
sweet  influence  of  moonlight  shed  over  a  lovely  scene. 
Let  not  the  traveller  fail  to  visit  Qoat  Island  when  the 
moon  shines  high  and  clear,  and  view  Niagara  by  her 
pale,  mysterious  light. 

LEQENit  OF  THE  WHITE  CANOE. 

In  days  of  old,  long  before  the  deep  solitudes  of  the 
West  were  disturbed  by  white  men,  it  was  the  custom  of 
the  Indian  warriors  of  the  forest  to  assemble  at  the 
Great  Cataract  and  offer  a  human  sacrifice  to  the  Spirit 
of  the  Falls.  The  offering  consisted  of  a  white  canoe 
full  of  ripe  fruits  and  blooming  flowers ;  which  was 
paddled  over  the  terrible  cliff  by  the  fairest  girl  of  the 
tribe  who  had  just  arrived  at  the  age  of  womanhood.  It 
was  counted  an  honour  by  the  tribe  to  whose  lot  it  fell  to 
make  the  costly  sacrifice ;  and  even  the  doomed  maiden 
deemed  it  a  high  compliment  to  be  selected  to  guide  the 
white  canoe  over  the  Falls.  But  in  the  stoical  heart  of 
the  red  man  ther*  are  tender  feelings  which  cannot  be 
subdued,  and  cords  which  snap  if  strained  too  roughly. 

The  only  daughter  of  a  chief  of  the  Seneca  Indians  was 
chosen  aa  a  laerificial  offering  to  the  Spirit  of  Niagara. 


4'  n 


~ql^~ 


11       '■* 
i 

i 


26 


FALLS  OP  NIAGARA. 


Her  mother  had  been  slain  by  a  hostile  tribe.  Her 
father  was  the  bravest  among  the  warriors,  and  his  stem 
brow  seldom  relaxed  save  to  his  blooming  child,  who  was 
now  the  only  joy  to  which  he  clung  on  earth.  When  the 
lot  fell  on  his  fair  child,  no  symptom  of  feoling  crossed 
his  countenance.  In  the  pride  of  Indian  endurance  he 
crushed  down  the  feelings  that  tore  his  bosom,  and  no 
tear  trembled  in  his  dark  eye  as  the  preparations  for  the 
sacrifice  went  forward.  At  length  the  day  arrived ;  it 
faded  into  night  as  the  savage  festivities  and  rejoicing 
proceeded ;  then  the  moon  arose  and  silvered  the  cloud  of 
mist  that  rose  from  out  the  turmoil  of  Niagara ;  and  now 
the  white  canoe,  laden  with  its  precions  freight,  glided 
from  the  bank  and  swept  out  into  the  dread  rapid  from 
which  escape  is  hopeless.  The  young  girl  calmly  steered 
her  tiny  bark  towards  the  centre  of  the  stream,  while 
frantic  yells  and  shouts  arose  from  the  forest.  Suddenly 
another  white  canoe  shot  forth  upon  the  stream,  and, 
under  the  powerful  impulse  of  the  Seneca  chief,  flew  like 
an  arrow  to  destruction.  It  overtook  the  first ;  the  eyes 
of  father  and  child  met  in  one  last  gaze  of  love,  and 
then  they  plunged  together  over  the  thundering  cataract 
iuto  eternity  ! 
(17» 


OBJECTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  THE  NEIGHBOURHOOD 
OF  THE  FALLS. 

1  Falls  of  Niagara  will  doubtless  occupy  nearly  all 
the  \  :  e  and  en^^ross  all  the  iu-»erest  of  visitors;  never- 
theU:  V  .re  several  objects  in  the  vicinity  which  are 
wort  1,'  y'  jiocial  attention.  In  enumerating  these,  we 
wiU  adopv  lue  plan  of  beginning  at  the  Cataract  and 
descending  to  Lake  Ontario;  afterwards  we  will  describe 
the  river  from  Lake  Erie  to  the  Falls.  The  first  object 
of  interest  below  the  Cataract  is 

THE  NIAGARA  SUSPENSION  BRIDGE, 
Which  spans  the  river  about  two  miles  below  the  Falls. 
We  may  mention,  in  passing,  that  there  are  two  caves — 
Catlin's  Cave  and  the  Oiant's  Cave,  between  the  Bridge 
and  the  Falls,  on  the  American  side ;  and  Bender's  Cave 
on  the  Canada  side.  They  are,  however,  ^ardly  worthy 
of  notice. 

The  Suspension  Bridge  is  a  noble  and  stupendous 
structure.  It  is  the  work  of  Mr.  John  A.  Roebling  of 
Trenton,  New  Jersey,  and  was  begun  in  1852.  Formerly 
the  bridge  here  was  of  much  smaller  dimensions.    It  wan 


NIAGARA     Ctsr     IRON     BRIDGE 


.** 


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FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


27 


begun  in  1849  by  Mr.  Charles  Elliot,  who  first  crossed  it 
iu  an  iron  basket,  slung  under  a  single  cable  of  iron  wire. 
Afterwards  many  people  crossed  in  this  way,  being  let 
down  the  incline  and  drawn  up  on  the  opposite  side  by  a 
windlass.  While  six  workmen  were  employed  on  the 
foot-path  of  this  brid|;e,  a  terrific  gale  burst  upon  them, 
tore  the  planks  away,  and  left  four  of  their  number 
clinging  to  two  thin  wires,  which  swung  fearfully  to  and 
fro,  while  the  whirling  rapids  raged  beneath  them.  The 
other  two  escaped  on  fragments  of  board  to  the  shore.  A 
brave  comrade  descended  in  the  basket,  during  a  lull  in 
the  gale,  and  by  means  of  a  ladder  rescued  his  companions 
from  their  awful  position.  The  basket  is  still  to  be  seen 
on  the  Canada  side. 

The  present  bridge  is  of  enormous  strength,  and  forms 
a  communication  between  Canada  and  the  States,  over 
which  the  carriages  of  the  Qreat  Western  and  the  New 
York  Central  Railroads,  and  oars  of  every  description, 
run  without  causing  the  slightest  vibration.  The  cost  of 
ito  construction  was  $500,000  (more  than  £100,000 
sterling);  and  steam  carriages  first  crossed  it  on  the  8th 
March  1855.  The  road  for  carriages  is  suspended  28  feet 
below  the  railway  line. 
(17) 


The  following  statistics  of  this  enormous  bridge  wi]l  be 
interesting  : — The  height  of  the  towers  on  the  American 
side  is  88  feet ;  those  on  the  Canada  side  are  78  feet  high. 
Length  of  bridge  is  800  feet ;  width,  24  feet ;  height 
above  the  river,  250  feet.  There  are  four  enormous  wire 
cables  of  about  10  inches  diameter,  which  contain  about 
4000  miles  of  wire ;  and  the  ultimate  capacity  of  the  four 
cables  is  about  12,400  tons.  The  total  weight  of  the 
bridge  is  800  tons  ;  and  it  combines,  in  an  eminent  de- 
gree, strength  witi'  elegance  of  structure.  Our  Engrav- 
ing is  from  a  photograph. 

NEW  SUSPENSION   BRIDGE  AT  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

The  New  Suspension  Bridge  over  the  Niagara  River, 
now  about  being  completed  (November  1868),  is  located 
in  full  view  of  the  Qreat  Cataraiit,  and  will  take  rank 
with  any  similar  structure  in  the  world  for  the  engineer- 
ing skill  and  commercial  enterprise  exhibited  in  its  con- 
struction. It  is  designed  more  especially  for  foot  pas- 
sengers and  light  carriages,  and  will  be  found  eminently 
serviceable  in  facilitating  the  sight-seeing  which  attracts 
such  throngs  of  visitors  to  the  Falls  at  all  seasons— but 
chiefly  during  the  summer  and  the  two  first  months  of 


28 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


autumn.  Heretofore  the  means  of  access  to  the  Canada 
side  from  the  village  of  Niagara  Falls  in  the  State  of  New 
York,  has  been  by  conveyance  in  hacks  across  the  Bail- 
road  Bridge  two  miles  below,  involving  a  long  and  some- 
what expensive  ride.  The  New  Bridge  offers  a  passage 
from  the  American  to  the  opposite  shore  in  a  walk  of  ten 
minutes  from  the  principal  hotels,  with  an  opportunity 
for  views  of  the  Falls  and  the  surrounding  scenery  of  the 
most  wonderful  and  charming  description. 

The  elements  of  this  new  and  splendid  work  may  be 
gathered  from  the  following  details : — 

The  bridge  is  supported  upon  timber  towers,  having  a 
quadrilateral  base  of  28  feet,  and  converging  to  a  square 
of  4  feet  at  the  top,  firmly  bolted  and  braced,  and  stand- 
ing upon  the  solid  rock.  The  American  tower  is  100  feet 
in  height ;  the  Canadian,  105.  The  space  from  centre 
to  centre  of  the  towers  measures  1268  feet  4  inches.  It 
is  1190  feet  from  one  wall  of  the  river  to  the  other.  The 
suspended  roadway  is  1240  feet  in  length.  The  distance 
between  the  anchorages  is  1828  feet;  and  from  one  anchor 
to  the  other  1888  feet.  This  shows  it  to  be  the  longest 
suspension  bridge  in  the  world.  The  elevation  of  the 
bridge  at  the  centre  above  the  surface  of  the  Niagara 
(17) 


River  is  from  175  to  190  feet,  according  to  the  general 
level  of  the  lakes ;  the  depth  of  water  in  the  channel 
being  250  feet. 

The  two  cables  from  which  the  bridge  is  suspended 
have  an  extreme  length,  as  already  stated,  of  nearly  1900 
feet.  They  are  composed  of  wire  ropes,  in  number  seven, 
each  rope  consisting  of  seven  strands,  and  embracing 
133  No.  9  wires.  The  cables  thus  consist  of  931  wires. 
The  ropes  weigh  54  pounds  per  furlong  of  6  feet.  The 
cables  are  securely  embedded  at  the  extremities— on  the 
American  side  18  feet  below  the  surface  in  heavy  masonry, 
and  on  the  other  side  in  an  excavation  quarried  out  of  the 
solid  rock.  Each  of  the  ropes  is  capable  of  sustaining  a 
weight  of  120  tons,  and  their  united  strength  is  equal  to 
1680  tons.  The  over-fioor  stays,  48  in  number,  also 
passing  over  the  towers  and  fastened  in  the  common 
anchorages,  will  sustain  an  additional  weight  of  1320 
tons.  The  combined  strength  of  the  cables.iutd  stays  is 
thus  found  to  be  equal  to  the  support  of  a  load  of  3000 
tons,  or  6,000,000  pounds.  The  weight  of  the  bridge 
and  its  appurtenances  is  estimated  at  250  tons— less  than 
one-twelfth  of  the  sustaining  power  depending  from  the 
towers ;  3000  people  may  be  at  once  distributed  over  the 


<^m 


SUSPENSION     BHIDCE   i     (iAPIOS    ABOVf.    THt    FALLS 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


bridge,  without  in  the  slightest  degree  affecting  its  sup- 
porting capability. 

The  roadway  of  this  bridge  is  composed  of  two  stringers 
or  chords,  10  feet  apart,  upon  which  are  laid  the  cross 
ties,  or  needle-beams,  6  feet  apart.  The  chords  are 
further  strengthened  by  channel  bars  of  iron  running  the 
whole  length  on  the  under  side,  and  so  attached  as  to 
form  a  continuous  plate.  In  addition,  a  stiff  railing, 
5  feet  high,  is  erected  at  oje  sides,  and  so  bolted  to  the 
chords  and  floor- beams  as  to  serve  as  a  protection  against 
casualties,  as  well  as  to  resist  any  strain  from  the  wind, 
or  to  the  transit  of  vehicles.  The  flooring  consists  of  a 
double  course  of  Norway  pine,  each  an  inch  and  a  half 
thick.  The  roadway  is  10  feet  in  width,  sufficient  to 
admit  of  the  transit  of  foot  passengers  without  obstruc- 
tion from  the  passage  of  carriages  in  one  direction — the 
latter  alternating  from  each  side  of  the  river  at  periods  of 
fifteen  minutes. 

A  very  fine  view  of  the  bridge— its  cables,  stays,  nine 
hundred  suspenders  and  suspender  rods,  and  lofty 
towers — will  be  afforded  from  points  of  observation  below, 
on  the  American  side ;  and  above,  on  the  Canadian.  Its 
great  length,  symmetrical  form,  graceful  curve,  and  obvi- 
07) 


ous  strength,  cannot  fail  to  strike  every  beholder  with 
equal  surprise  and  pleasure.  Whilst  this  structure  will 
increase  the  facilities  for  the  inspection  and  study  of  the 
great  natural  wonders  displayed  here  in  such  grandeur 
and  magnificence,  it  will  become  of  itself  an  object  of 
curious  interest,  and  add  still  another  to  the  attractions 
which  fill  the  minds  of  all  observers  with  admiration. 

Tolls.— BO  cents  for  two-horse  carriages,  including  the 
driver;  85  cents  for  one-horse  carriage;  25  cents  for  each 
passenger  in  carriage  or  on  foot. 

LUNDY'S  LANE  BATTLE-GROUND 
Is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  Falls,  near  to  Cliftou 
House.  This  great  battle  between  the  Americans  and 
the  British  was  fought  on  the  25th  July  1814.  The 
number  of  killed  and  wounded  on  both  sides  was  about 
equal,  and  both  parties,  as  a  matter  of  course,  claim  the 
victory  I 

DrummondvtUe,  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  is  named 
after  General  Drummond,  then  commander  of  the  British 
forces. 

Niagara  City  stands  on  either  side  of  the  Suspension 
Bridge,  but  it  is  not  as  yet  deserving  of  the  title  of  a  city. 


30 


PALLS  or  NIAGARA. 


I 


THE    WHIRLPOOL 

About  three  miles  below  the  Falls  the  river  takes  an 
abrupt  turn,  and  shoots  with  great  violence  against  the 
cliff  on  the  Canada  side,  forming  what  is  called  the 
Whirlpool.  Our  Engraving  is  from  a  drawing  by  the 
graphic  pencil  of  Mr.  Friend.  The  set  :ry  around  this 
caldron  is  exceedingly  wild. 

A  short  distance  fui-ther  on  are  the  Mineral  Springt, 
sometimes  called  the  Belle  Vue  Fountain. 

The  Rapid*  just  below  the  Whirlpool  are  very  fine. 

Less  than  half  a  mile  further  down  the  river,  on  the 
American  side,  is 

THE  DEVIL'S  HOLE, 
A  terribly  gloomy  and  savage  chasm  in  the  bank  of  the 
river,  between  one  and  two  hundred  feet  deep.  Over- 
hanging this  dark  cavern  is  a  perpendicular  precipice, 
from  the  top  of  which  falls  a  small  stream  named  The 
fllondy  Run.  The  stream  obtained  its  name  from  the 
following  tragical  incident: — 

Daring  the  French  war  in  1763,  a  detachment  of  Bri- 
tish soldiers  (consisting  of,  iome  say  one  hundred,  some 
117) 


fifty  men),  was  forwarded  with  a  large  supply  of  provi- 
sions from  Fort  Niagara  to  Fort  Schlosser.  The  Seneca 
Indians,  then  in  the  pay  of  the  French,  resolved  to  lay 
an  ambuscade  for  them,  and  chose  this  dark  spot  for 
their  enterprise.  The  savages,  who  were  numerous, 
scattered  themselves  along  the  hill-sides,  and  lay  con- 
cealed among  the  bushes  until  the  British  came  up  and  had 
passed  the  precipice ;  then,  uttering  a  terrific  yell,  they 
descended  like  a  whirlwind,  and,  before  the  soldiers  had 
time  to  form,  poured  into  their  confused  ranks  a  wither- 
ing volley  of  bullets.  The  little  stream  ran  red  with 
blood,  and  the  whole  party— soldiers,  waggons,  horses, 
and  drivers — were  hurled  over  the  cliff  into  the  yawning 
gulf  below,  and  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks.  Only  two 
escaped  to  tell  the  tale  ;  the  one  a  soldier,  who  returned 
during  the  night  to  Fort  Niagara;  the  other  a  Mr. 
Stedman,  who  dashed  his  horse  through  the  ranks  of 
his  enemies,  and  escaped  amid  a  shower  of  bullets. 

BROCK'S  MONUMENT, 
Stands  on  the  Queenston  Heights,  Canada  side,  just 
above  the  village  of  that  name.    This  monument  was 
raised  in  commemoration  of  the  British  poneral,  Sir 


!?'.» 


I 


WHIRLPOOL    lieAR    NIAGARA. 


i'f 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


31 


Isaac  Brock,  who  fell  in  the  sanguinary  action  fought  on 
this  spot  on  the  13th  October  1612.  His  remains,  and 
those  of  his  aid-de-camp,  Colonel  John  M'Donald,  who 
died  of  wounds  received  in  the  same  battle,  are  buried 
here. 

The  first  monument  was  completed  in  1826,  and  was 
blown  up  in  1840  by  a  person  named  Lett,  who  was 
afterwards  imprisoned  for  this  dastardly  act.  The  pres- 
ent handsome  shaft  was  erected  in  1853.  Its  height  is 
185  feet ;  the  base  is  40  feet  square  by  30  feet  high ;  the 
shaft  is  of  freestone,  fluted,  75  feet  high  and  30  feet  in 
circumference,  surmounted  by  a  Corinthian  capital,  on 
which  stands  a  statue  of  the  gallant  general. 

The  view  from  this  monument  is  most  gorgeous.  The 
eye  wanders  'with  untiring  delight  over  the  richest 
imaginable  scene  of  woodland  and  water.  Just  below  is 
the  village  of  Queenston,  and  on  the  opposite  shore  is 
Lewiston.  In  the  midst  flows  the  now  tranquil  Biver 
Niagara— calm  and  majestic  in  its  recovered  serenity. 
In  the  far  distance,  on  either  side,  stretches  the  richly- 
wooded  landscape,  speckled  with  villas  and  cottages.  At 
the  month  of  the  river  are  the  town  of  Niagara  on  the 
Canadian  side,  and  Youngston  on  the  American.  Its 
(17) 


entrance  is  guarded  on  the  latter  side  by  Fort  Niagara, 
and  on  the  former  hjFort  Massasauga.  The  whole  view 
is  terminated  by  the  magnificent  sheet  of  Lake  Ontario, 
which  stretches  away  like  a  flood  of  light  to  the  horizon. 

QUEENSTON 
Is  a  small  picturesque  town,  and  worthy  of  notice  chiefly 
on  account  of  the  memorable  battle  that  took  place  on  the 
neighbouring  heights. 

LEWISTON, 
Just  opposite  Queenston  is  a  beautifully  situated  town, 
about  seven  miles  from  the  Falls.  It  is  a  place  of  some 
importance,  and  stands  at  the  head  of  the  navigation  on 
the  river :  it  contains  several  excellent  hotels  and  public 
buildings.  The  Bufiialo,  Niagara  Falls,  and  Lewiston 
Railroad  Terminus,  la  here.  There  is  a  village  of  Tusca- 
rora  Indians  three  miles  from  this.  Lewiston  was 
destroyed  by  the  British  in  1813,  and  rebuilt  at  the 
termination  of  the  war. 

NIAGARA  TOWN 
Stands  on  the  Canada  shore,  opposite  Youngston,  on  the 
site  of  Newark,  which  was  burnt  in  1813  by  General 


V   ;fi 


3:2 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


M'Clure.  Its  prosperity  has  been  injured  somewhat  by 
the  Welland  Canal.  A  slioi-t  distance  above  the  town 
are  the  remains  of  Fort  George,  which  was  taken  by  the 
Americanii  in  1818,  afterwards  destroyed  by  the  British, 
and  left  in  ruius. 

Fort  Niagara,  on  the  American  side,  has  many  his- 
torical associations,  which  we  have  not  space  to  touch 
upon.  The  Eu((Iish  General  Frideaux  fell  here  in  the 
battle  of  24th  July  1759,  and  the  French  garrison  After- 
wards surrendered  to  Sir  William  Johnson. 

Fort  Massasauga,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  opposite 
Fort  Niagara,  is  a  little  below  the  town  of  Niagara,  and 
is  garrisoned  by  British  soldiers. 

NIAGARA  RIVER  ABOVE  THE  FALLS. 

Having  now  traced  this  noble  river  from  the  Falls  to 
its  mouth,  let  us  proceed  to  its  source  at  Lake  Erie,  and 
give  it  a  rapid  glance  as  we  follow  its  course  to  the  Qreat 
Cataract. 

Buffalo,  at  its  commencement,  stands  guard  at  the 

outlet  of  Lake  Erie.     This  is  a  great  commercial  city, 

from  which  trains  leave  daily  for  all  parts  of  the  States 

and  Canada.    Railway  direct  to  the  Falls,  which  are  dis- 

(17) 


tant  about  22  miles.  The  terminus  of  this  railway  is  at 
Lewiston,  and  it  connects  with  the  Great  Western  Bail- 
way  of  Canada  at  the  Suspension  Bridge.  Just  opposite 
is  old  Fort  Erie,  belonging  to  the  British. 

Black  Rock,  now  part  of  Buffalo,  once  rivalled  tht 
city  in  importance.    Here  a  steam-ferry  crosses  over  to 
Waterloo,  a  village  on  the  Canada  shore. 

Tonaieanda  is  12  miles  from  Bu£hlo,  at  the  widest 
part  of  Niagara  River. 

Grand  Idand,  on  which  is  a  little  hamlet  named 
White  Haven,  divides  the  river  into  two  branches.  On 
the  site  of  White  Haven  was  intended  to  be  built  a  "city 
of  refuge  for  the  Jews;  "  bat  the  aspiring  and  sanguine 
projector  failed  in  carrying  oat  his  intention. 

Fort  Schlosser  is  9  miles  further  down  the  river,  on  the 
American  side.  It  was  at  the  old  landing  here  that  the 
burning  of  the  Caroline  took  place,  during  the  Oauadian 
rebellion  of  1837. 

The  insurgents  had  taken  up  a  position  on  Navy 
Idand,  and  the  Caroline  steamer  was  charged  by  the 
British  with  carrying  provisions  to  the  rebels.  The  vessel 
was  therefore  seized  by  Colonel  M'Nabb,  cut  loose  from 
her  moorings,  set  on  fire,  and  sent,  like  a  flaming  meteor, 


V' 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


33 


down  the  wild  rapids  and  over  the  Falls  of  Nia(;ara. 
There  was  no  one  on  board  when  this  vessel  took  her 
awful  leap  into  the  roaring  gulf.  Opposite  Schlosser  is 
the  village  of  Chippewa  (2^  miles  above  the  Falls),  from 
which  a  railway  runs  to  Queenston  and  the  mouth  of  the 
river.  Steamers  ply  between  Buffalo  and  this  village, 
below  which  vessels  dare  not  venture. 

THE    ISLANDS 

Abovj  the  rapids  are  very  numerous.  Indeed  the  river 
is  studded  with  them,  from  Lake  Erie  all  the  way  down 
to  iLe  Falls.  There  are  87  of  them,  if  we  may  be  per- 
mitted to  count  those  that  are  little  more  than  large 
rocks.  Grand  Idand  is  the  largest,  being  12  miles  long 
and  7  broad.  It  divides  the  stream  into  two  branches. 
Navy  Island  is  just  below  it.  Here  the  French  built 
their  ships  of  war  in  1759.  This  island  was  the  resort 
of  the  rebel  leaders  in  1837.  It  has  an  area  of  304  acres. 
Our  space  forbids  further  notice  of  these  islands,  which 


are  exquisitely  beautiful.  Some  are  large,  and  others 
are  small;  some  lie  in  quiet  water,  clearly  reflected  in 
the  surrounding  mirror;  while  others  stand  in  the  midst 
of  the  raging  current,  looking  black  in  the  white  turmoil 
of  surrounding  foam,  and  seeming  as  if  they  would  fain 
check  the  angry  waters  in  their  headlong  rush  towards 
the  Falls. 

There  is  a  fascination  about  this  mighty  cataract 
which  seems  to  chain  ua  to  the  spot,  and,  when  we  seek 
to  leave  it,  draws  us  irresistibly  back  again.  Even  in 
describing  it,  however  inadequately  the  task  may  be 
accomplished,  we  are  loath  to  lay  down  the  pen  and  tear 
ourselves  away.  The  Almighty  has  invested  Niagara 
with  a  power  which  none  can  resist;  and  those  who  gaze 
upon  it  for  the  first  time  have  a  new  era  in  their  exist* 
cnce  opened  up — new  thoughts  and  impressions  stamped 
indelibly  on  their  hearts,  which  will  haunt  them  in  after 
years  and  linger  on  their  memories  till  time  shall  be  swal- 
lowed up  in  eternity. 


t» 


(17) 


GEOLOGY    OF    NIAGARA. 


The  geological  features  of  the  district  around  Niagara 
are  very  remarkable,  and  the  Falls  afford  a  tine  example  of 
the  power  of  water  to  form  an  excavation  of  great  depth  and 
considerable  length  in  the  solid  rock.  The  country  over 
which  the  river  flows  is  a  flat  table-land,  elevated  about 
330  feet  above  Lake  Ontario.  Lake  Erie,  situated  in  a 
depression  of  this  platform,  is  about  36  miles  distant  from 
Ontario,  lying  to  the  south-west.  This  table-land  ex- 
tends towards  Queenston,  where  it  terminates  suddenly 
in  an  abrupt  line  of  cliff,  or  escarpment,  facing  towards 
vhe  north.  The  land  then  continues  on  a  lower  level  to 
Lr.ke  Ontario. 

The  descent  of  the  River  Niagara— which,  let  it  be 
borne  in  remembrance,  flows  northward — is  only  about 
fifteen  feet  in  the  first  fifteen  miles  from  Lake  Erie,  and 
the  country  around  is  almost  on  a  level  with  the  river's 
banks.  At  this  part  the  Niagara  varies  from  one  to 
(17) 


three  miles  in  width,  has  a  tranquil  current,  and  is  lake- ' 
like  in  appearance,  being  interspersed  with  low,  wooded 
islands.  At  the  head  of  the  rapids  it  assumes  a  totally 
difl'erent  appearance,  and  descends  about  fifty  feet  in  less 
than  a  mile,  over  an  uneven  bed  of  limestone,  and,  after 
being  divided  into  two  sheets  by  Ooat  Island,  plunges 
down  about  164  feet  perpendicular  at  the  Falls.  Just 
below  the  Falls  the  river  narrows  abruptly,  and  flows 
rapidly  through  a  deep  gorge,  varying  from  200  to  400 
yards  wide,  and  300  feet  deep.  This  gorge,  or  chasm, 
extends  from  the  Falls  to  the  escarpment  above  referred 
to,  near  Queenston,  a  distance  of  seven  miles;  in  the 
course  of  which  the  river  descends  100  feet,  and  then 
emerges  on  the  low,  level  land  lying  between  the  Queen- 
ston Heights  and  Lake  Ontario — a  further  distance  of 
seven  miles.  The  descent  here  is  only  about  four  feet 
altogether,  and  the  flow  of  the  river  is  placid.    The  chasm 


1 


GEOLOGY  OP  NIAGARA. 


36 


is  winding  in  form,  and,  about  the  centre  of  its  course, 
makes  a  turn  nearly  at  right  angles,  forming  the  well- 
known  whirlpool. 

Such  are  the  various  appearances  and  peculiarities  pre- 
sented by  the  River  and  Falls  of  Niagara,  the  causes  of 
which  we  shall  endeavour  to  explain. 

The  escarpment  at  Queeuston,  and  the  sides  of  the 
preat  ravine,  have  enabled  us  in  the  most  satisfactory 
manner  to  ascertain  the  geological  formations  of  the  dis- 
trict, and  to  account  for  the  present  position  of  the  Falls, 
as  well  as  to  form,  on  good  grounds,  an  opinion  as  to  the 
probable  working  of  this  mighty  cataract  in  the  future. 
It  has  long  been  supposed  that  the  Falls  originally  plunged 
over  the  cliff  at  Queeuston,  and  that  they  have  gradually 
eaten  their  way  back,  a  distance  of  seven  miles,  to  their 
present  position.  It  is  further  conjectured  that  tiiey  will 
continue  to  cut  their  way  back,  in  the  course  of  ages,  to 
Lake  Erie,  and  that  an  extensive  inundation  will  be 
caused  by  the  waters  of  the  lake  thus  set  free.  Recent 
investigation  has  shown,  however,  that  this  result  is 
highly  improbable,  we  may  almost  say  impossible;  that 
(he  peculiar  quality  and  position  of  the  strata  over  which 
the  river  flows  are  such,  that  the  Falls  will  be  diminished 
(171 


in  height  as  they  recede,  and  their  recession  be  altogether 
checked  at  a  certain  point. 

It  has  been  ascertained  beyond  all  doubt  that  the  Falls 
do  recede ;  but  the  rate  of  this  retrograde  movement  is 
very  uncertain,  and,  indeed,  we  have  every  reason  to  be- 
lieve that  the  rate  of  recession  must  of  necessity  in  time 
past  have  been  irregtUar.  The  cause  of  this  irregularity 
becomes  apparent  on  considering  the  formations  presented 
to  view  at  the  escarpment  and  in  the  chasm.  Here  we 
find  that  the  strata  are  nearly  horizontal,  as  indeed  they 
are  throughout  the  whole  region,  having  a  very  slight  dip 
towards  the  south  of  twenty-five  feet  in  a  mile.  They 
all  consist  of  difi'erent  members  of  the  Silurian  series, 
and  vary  considerably  in  thickness  and  density.  In  con- 
sequence of  the  slight  dip  in  the  strata  above  referred 
to,  the  different  groups  of  rock  crop  out  from  beneath 
each  other,  and  thus  appear  on  the  surface  in  parallel 
zones  or  belts;  and  the  Falls,  in  their  retrograde  move- 
ment, after  cutting  thrjugh  one  of  these  zones,  would 
meet  with  another  of  a  totally  different  character;  having 
cut  through  which,  a  third  would  succeed,  and  so  on. 

In  all  probability  Niagara  originally  flowed  through  a 
shallow  valley,  similar  to  that  above  the  Falls,  all  the 


36 


GEOLOGY  OP  NIAGARA. 


way  across  the  table-land  to  the  Queenston  Heights  or 
escarpment.  On  this  point  Sir  C.  Lyell  writes :  "  I  ob- 
tained geological  evidence  of  the  former  existence  of  an 
old  river-bed,  which,  I  have  no  doubt,  indicates  the  origi- 
nal channel  through  which  the  waters  once  flowed  from 
the  Falls  to  Queenston,  at  the  height  of  nearly  800  feet 
above  the  bottom  of  the  present  gorge.  The  geological 
monuments  alluded  to  consist  of  patches  of  sand  and 
gravel  forty  feet  thick,  containing  fluviatile  shells  of  the 
genera  Unio,  Cyclas,  Melania,  &c.,  such  as  now  inhabit 
the  waters  of  the  Niagara  above  the  Falls.  The  identity 
of  these  fossil  species  with  the  recent  is  unquestionable, 
and  these  fresh-water  deposits  occur  at  the  edge  of  the 
cliffs  bounding  the  ravine,  so  that  they  prove  the  former 
extension  of  an  elevated  shallow  valley,  four  miles  below 
the  Palls— a  distinct  prolongation  of  that  now  occupied 
by  the  Niagara  in  the  elevated  region  between  Lake  Erie 
and  the  Falls." 

At  the  escarpment  the  cataract  thundered  over  a  preci- 
pice twice  the  height  of  the  present  one,  to  the  lower 
level.  This  lower  level,  as  shown  by  Hall's  Report  on 
the  Geology  of  New  York,  is  composed  of  red  shaly  sand- 
stone and  marl.  The  formations  incumbent  upon  this, 
(17) 


exhibited  on  the  face  of  the  escarpment,  are  as  follows : 
1.  Gray  quartzose  sandstone;  2.  Bed  shaly  sandstone, 
similar  to  that  of  the  low  level,  with  thin  courses  of  sand- 
stone near  the  top;  3.  Gray  mottled  sandstone;  4.  A  thin 
bed  of  green  shale;  5.  Compact  gray  limestone;  6.  A 
thick  stratum  of  soft  argillo-calcareous  shale,  similar  to 
that  which  now  lies  at  the  base  of  the  Falls;  7.  A  thick 
stratum  of  limestone,  compact  and  geodiferous,  similar  to 
the  limestone  rock  which  forms  the  upper  part  of  the  Falls. 
This  is  all  that  we  have  presented  to  us  in  the  escarp- 
ment; but  we  may  observe,  parenthetically,  that  if  we 
proceed  backwards  towards  Lake  Brie,  we  cross  the  zone 
of  limestone,  and  at  the  Falls  discover  another  stratum 
of  thin-bedded  limestone  overlapping  it,  in  consequence 
of  the  southerly  dip  before  referred  to.  Further  back 
still  we  find  the  Onondaga  salt  group,  which  extends, 
superficially,  almost  to  Lake  Erie,  where  another  lime- 
stone formation  appears. 

Now,  had  there  been  no  dip  in  the  strata  of  the  table- 
land between  Lake  Erie  and  Queenston,  it  is  probable 
that  the  Falls  would  have  continued  to  recede  regularly, 
having  always  the  same  formations  to  cut  through,  and 
the  same  foundation  to  fall  upon  and  excavate.    But  in 


1 


GEOLOGY  OF  NIAGARA. 


37 


consequence  of  the  gentle  inclination  of  the  strata  to  the 
south,  the  surface  presented  to  the  action  of  the  Falls  has 
continually  varied,  and  the  process  of  recession  has  been 
as  follows : — 

First,  the  river,  rolling  over  the  upper  formation  of 
hard  limestone,  to  the  escarpment,  thundered  down  a 
height  about  double  that  of  the  present  Falls,  and  struck 
upon  the  red  shaly  sandstone  of  the  plain  below.  This 
being  soft,  was  rapidly  worn  away  by  the  action  of  the 
water  and  spray,  while  the  more  compact  rocks  above, 
comparatively  unaffected,  projected  over  the  caldron,  and 
at  length  fell  in  masses  from  time  to  time  as  the  under- 
mining process  went  on.  But  as  the  Falls  receded,  the 
belt  of  red  sandstone  was  gradually  crossed,  and  the  gray 
quartzose  sandstone  became  the  foundation  of  the  group, 
and  the  recipient  of  Niagara's  tremendous  blows.  This 
rock  is  extremely  hard;  here,  therefore,  the  retrograde 
movement  was  probably  retarded  forages;  and  here,  just 
at  the  point  where  the  Falls  intersected  this  thin  stratum 
of  quartzose  sandstone,  the  whirlpool  is  now  situated. 

The  next  formation  on  which  the  Falls  operated  was 
the  red  shaly  sandstone,  similar  to  the  first;  which,  being 
soft,  accelerated  the  recession.  This  went  on  at  increased 
(17) 


speed  until  the  stratum  was  cut  through,  and  the  third 
formation  was  reached.  Here  again  an  alteration  in 
speed  occurred  as  before.  The  last  that  has  been  cut 
through  is  the  fifth  stratum,  compact  gray  limestone,  on 
which  the  cataract  now  falls. 

The  formation  now  reached,  and  that  on  which  Niagara 
is  operating  at  the  present  day,  is  the  soft  argillo-calcare- 
ous  shale.  It  extends  from  the  bottom  of  the  precipice 
over  which  the  water  plunges,  to  nearly  half-way  up,  and 
is  about  eighty  feet  thick.  Above  it  lies  the  compact  re- 
fractory limestone,  which  forms  the  upper  formation  at 
this  point.  This  also  is  about  eighty  feet  thick;  and  here 
we  see  the  process  of  excavation  progressing  rapidly. 
The  lower  stratum,  being  soft,  is  disintegrated  by  the 
violent  action  of  the  water  and  spray,  aided  in  winter  by 
frost;  and  portions  of  the  incumbent  rock,  being  thus 
left  unsupported,  fall  down  from  time  to  time.  The  huge 
masses  of  undermined  limestone  that  fell  in  the  years 
1818  and  1828,  shook  the  country,  it  is  said,  like  an 
earthquake. 

This  process  is  continually  altering  the  appearance  ot 
the  Falls.  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  in  his  geological  treatise 
on  this  region,  says :  "  According  to  the  statement  of 


-*- 


38 


OKOLOOY  OF  NIAGARA. 


our  guide  in  1841  (Samuel  Hooker),  an  indentation  of 
about  forty  feet  has  been  produced  in  the  middle  of  the 
ledge  of  limestone  at  the  lesser  Fall  since  the  year  1815, 
so  that  it  has  begun  to  assume  the  shape  of  a  crescent ; 
while  within  the  same  period  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall  has 
lieen  altered  so  as  less  to  deserve  its  name.  Uoat  Island 
has  lost  several  acres  in  area  in  the  last  four  years ;  and 
I  have  no  doubt  that  this  waste  neither  is,  nor  has  been, 
a  mere  temporary  accident,  since  I  found  that  the  same 
recession  was  in  progress  in  various  other  waterfalls 
which  I  visited  with  Mr.  Hall  in  the  State  of  New  York." 

The  rate  at  which  the  Falls  now  recede  is  a  point  of 
dispute.  Mr.  Bakewell  calculatetl  that,  in  the  forty 
years  preceding  1830,  Niagara  had  lieen  going  back  at 
the  rate  of  about  a  yard  annually.  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  on 
the  other  hand,  is  of  opinion  that  one  foot  per  annum  is 
a  much  more  probable  conjecture.  As  we  have  already 
explained,  thib  rapid  rate  of  recession  has,  in  all  likeli- 
hood, not  been  uniform,  but  that  in  many  parts  of  its 
course  Niagara  has  remained  almost  stationary  for  ages. 

That  the  Falls  will  ever  reach  Lake  Erie  is  rendered 
extremely  improbable  from  the  following  facta :  Owing 
to  th«  formation  of  the  land,  they  are  gradually  losing  in 
(17) 


height,  and,  therefore,  in  power,  as  they  retreat.  More- 
over we  know  that,  in  consequence  of  the  southerly  dip 
of  the  strata,  they  will  have  cut  through  the  bed  of  soft 
shale  after  travelling  two  miles  further  back ;  thus  the 
massive  limestone  which  is  now  at  the  top  will  then  be 
at  the  bottom  of  the  precipice,  while,  at  the  same  time, 
the  Falls  will  be  only  half  their  present  height.  This 
latter  hypothesis  has  been  advanced  by  Mr.  Hall,  who, 
in  his  survey,  has  demonstrated  that  there  is  a  diminu- 
tion of  forty  feet  in  the  perpendicular  height  of  the  Falls 
for  every  mile  that  they  recede  southward :  and  this 
conclusion  is  based  upon  two  facts — namely,  that  the 
slope  of  the  river-channel,  in  its  course  northward,  is 
fifteen  feet  in  a  mile,  and  that  the  dip  of  the  strata  in  an 
opposite,  or  southerly  direction,  is  about  twenty-five  feet 
in  a  mile. 

From  this  it  seems  probable  that,  in  the  course  of 
between  ten  and  eleven  thousand  years,  the  Falls  of 
Niagara,  having  the  thick  and  hard  limestone  at  their 
base,  and  having  diminished  to  half  their  present 
height,  will  be  effectually  retarded  in  their  retrograde 
progress,  if  not  previously  checked  by  the  fall  of  large 
masses  of  the  rock  from  the  cliff  above.    Should  they 


GEOLOGY  OF  NIAGARA. 


39 


still  recede,  however,  beyond  this  point,  in  the  course  of 
future  ages  they  will  have  to  intersect  entirely  different 
strata  from  that  over  which  tbey  now  fall,  and  will  be 
no  diminished  in  height  as  to  be  almost  lost  before 
reaching  Lake  Erie. 

The  question  as  to  the  origin  of  the  Fulls — the  manner 
in  which  they  commenced,  and  the  geological  period  at 
which  they  tirst  came  into  existence— is  one  of  great 
interest ;  but  want  of  space  forbids  our  discussing  that 
question  here.  We  can  make  but  one  or  two  brief 
remarks  in  regard  to  it. 

Sir  Charles  Lyell  is  of  opinion  that,  originally  the 
whole  country  was  beneath  the  surface  of  the  ocean,  at  a 
very  remote  geological  period ;  that  it  emerged  slowly 
from  the  sea,  and  was  again  submerged  at  a  compara- 
tively modern  period,  when  shells  then  inhabiting  the 
ocean  belonged  almost  without  exception  to  species  still 
living  inf  high  northern  latitudes,  and  some  of  them  in 
temperate  latitudes.  The  next  great  change  was  the 
blow  and  gradual  re-emergence  of  this  country. 

As  soon  as  the  table-land  between  Lakes  Erie  and 
Ontario  emerged,  the  River  Niagara  came  into  existence ; 
and  at  the  same  moment  there  was  a  cascade  of  moderate 
(17) 


height  at  Queenston,  which  fell  directly  into  the  sea. 
The  cataract  then  commenced  its  retrograde  movement. 
As  t)ie  land  slowly  emerged,  and  the  hard  beds  were 
exposed,  another  Fall  would  be  formed ;  and  then  pro. 
bably  a  third,  when  the  quartzose  sandstone  appeared. 
The  recession  of  the  uppermost  Fall  must  have  been 
retarded  by  the  thick  limestone  bed  through  which  it 
had  to  cut;  the  second  Fall,  not  being  exposed  to  the 
same  hindrance,  overtook  it;  and  thus  the  three  ulti- 
mately came  to  be  joined  in  one. 

The  successive  ages  that  must  have  rolled  on  during 
the  evolution  of  these  events  are  beyond  the  power  of 
the  human  intellect  to  appreciate,  and  belong  to  those 
"deep  things  "of  the  great  Creator,  whose  ways  are 
infinitely  above  our  finite  comprehension.  It  is  roughly 
calculated  that  the  Falls  must  have  taken  at  least 
35,000  years  to  cut  their  way  from  the  escarpment  of 
Queenston  to  their  present  position;  yet  this  period, 
great  though  it  is  in  comparison  with  the  years  to  which 
the  annals  of  the  human  race  are  limited,  is  as  nothing 
when  compared  with  the  previous  ages  whose  extent  is 
indicated  by  the  geological  formations  in  the  region 
around  Niagara. 


DESCRIPTIVE     PIECES. 


TO     NIAGARA 

WRITTEN  AT  THE  FIRST  SIGHT  OF  ITS  FALLS, 

Augruit  13, 1837. 

Hail!  Sovereign  of  the  world  of  floods!  whose  majestjr  and 

might 
First  dazzles,  then  enraptures,  then  o'erawes  the  aching  sight: 
The  pomp  of  kings  and  emperors,  in  every  clime  and  zone. 
Grows  dim  beneath  the  splendour  of  thy  glorious  watery 

throne. 

No  fleets  can  stop  thy  progress,  no  armies  bid  thee  stay. 
But  onward — onward — onward — thy  march  still  holds  its 

way; 
The  rising  mists  that  veil  thee  as  thy  heralds  go  before. 
And  the  music  that  proclaims  thee  is  the  thund'ring  cat'ract's 

roar! 
(17) 


Thy  diadem's  an  emerald,  of  the  clearest,  purest  hue, 

Set  round  with  waves  of  snow-white  foam,  and  spray  of 

feathery  dew; 
While  tresses  of  the  brightest  pearls  float  o'er  thine  ample 

sheet, 
And  the  rainbow  lays  its  gorgeous  gems  in  tribute  at  thy  feet. 

Thy  reign  is  from  'he  ancient  days,  thy  sceptre  from  on  high, 
Thy  birth  was  when  the  distant  stars  first  lit  the  glowing  sky; 
The  sun,  the  moon,  and  all  the  orbs  that  shine  upon  thee  now. 
Beheld  the  wreath  of  glory  which  first  bound  thine  infant 
brow. 

And  from  *hat  hour  to  this,  in  which  I  gaze   upon  thy 

stream, 
From   age   to  age — in  winter's  frost   or  summer's  sultry 

beam — 


ll 


DESCRIPTIVE  PIECES. 


41 


Dy  day,  by  night,  without  a  pause,  thy  waves,  with  loud 

acclaim, 
In  ceaseless  sounds  have  still  proclaimed  the  great  Eternal's 

name. 

For  whether,  on  thy  forest-banks,  the  Indian  of  the  wood. 
Or,  since  his  day,  the  red  man's  foe  on  his  fatherland  has 

stood; 
Whoe'er  has  seen  thine  incense  rise,  or  heard  thy  torrents 

roar. 
Must  have  knelt  before  the  God  of  all  to  worship  and  adore. 

Accept,  then,  O  Supremely  Great !  0  Infinite !  O  God ! 
From  this  primeval  altar,  the  green  and  virgin  sod, 
The  humble  homage  that  my  soul  in  gratitude  would  pay 
To  Thee  whose  shield  has  guarded  me  through  all  my  wan- 
dering way. 

For  if  the  ocean  be  as  nought  in  the  hollow  of  Thine  hand, 
And  the  stars  of  the  bright  firmament  in  Thy  balance  grains  of 

sand; 
If  Niagara's  rolling  flood  seem  great  to  us  who  humbly  bow, 
Oh,  Great  Creator  of  the  Whole,  how  passing  great  art  Thou! 
(17) 


But  though  Thy  power  is  far  more  vast  than  finite  mind  can 

scan. 
Thy  mercy  is  still  greater  shown  to  weak,  dependent  man : 
For  him  thou  cloth'st  the  fertile  earth  with  herbs,  and  fruit, 

and  seed; 
For  him  the  seas,  the  lakes,  the  streams,  supply  his  hourly 

need. 

Around,  on  high,  or  far,  or  near,  the  universal  whole 
Proclaims  Thy  glory,  as  the  orbs  in  their  fixed  courses  roll; 
And  from  Creation's  grateful  voice  the  hymn  ascends  above. 
While  Heaven  re-echoes  back  to  Earth  the  chorus — "  God  is 

love!"  J.  S.  BUOKINQHAIL 


THE    FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 

Tbebe's  nothing  great  or  bright,  thou  glorious  Fall! 
Thou  mayst  not  to  the  fancy's  sense  recall — 
The  thunder-riven  cloud,  the  lightning's  leap. 
The  stirrings  of  the  chambers  of  the  deep; 
Earth's  emerald  green  and  many-tinted  dyes, 
The  fleecy  whiteness  of  the  upper  skies; 
The  tread  of  armies,  thickening  as  they  come, 
The  boom  of  cannon  and  the  beat  of  drum; 


42 


DESORIPTIVB  PIE0E8. 


The  brow  of  beanty  and  the  form  of  grace, 
The  paulon  and  the  prowess  of  onr  race; 
The  aong  of  Homer  in  its  loftiest  hour, 
The  unresisting  sweep  of  Boman  power; 
Britannia's  trident  on  the  azure  sea, 
America's  young  shout  of  liberty! 

Oh,  may  the  wars  that  madden  on  these  deeps, 
There  spend  their  rage,  nor  climb  the  encircling  steeps; 
And  till  the  conflict  of  their  surges  cease. 
The  nations  on  thy  banks  repose  in  peace! 

LORD  MORFKTH. 


NIAGARA. 
Flow  on  for  ever,  in  thy  glorious  robe 
Of  terror  and  of  beauty.    Yea,  flow  on, 
Unfathomed  and  resistless.    God  hath  set 
His  rainbow  on  thy  forehead,  and  the  cloud 
Mantled  around  thy  feet    And  He  doth  give 
Thy  voice  of  thunder  power  to  speak  of  Him 
Eternally — bidding  the  lip  of  man 
Keep  silence,  and  upon  thine  altar  pour 
Incense  of  awe-struck  praise. 
(17) 


Earth  fears  to  lift 
The  insect  trump  that  tells  her  trifling  Joys 
Or  fleeting  triumplis,  'mid  the  peal  sublime 
Of  thy  tremendous  hymn.    Proud  Ocean  shrinks 
Back  from  thy  brotherhood,  and  all  his  waves 
Retire  alMshed.    For  he  hath  need  to  sleep, 
Sometimes,  like  a  spent  labourer,  calling  home 
His  boisterous  billows,  from  their  vexing  play, 
To  a  long  dreary  calm :  but  thy  strong  tide 
Faints  not,  nor  e'er  with  failing  hearts  forgets 
Its  everlasting  lesson,  night  nor  day. 
The  morning  stars,  that  hailed  Creation's  birth, 
Heard  thy  hoarse  anthem  mixing  with  their  song 
Jehovah's  name  ;  and  the  dissolving  fires, 
That  wait  the  mandate  of  the  day  of  doom 
To  wreck  the  Earth,  shall  find  it  deep  inscribed 
Upon  thy  rocky  scroll. 

*  *  *  •  « 

Lo !  yon  birds. 
How  bold !  they  venture  near,  dipping  their  wing 
In  all  thy  mist  and  foam.    Perchance  'tis  meet 
For  thom  to  touch  thy  garment's  hem,  or  stir 
Thy  diamond  wreath,  who  sport  upon  the  cloud 


DESCRIPTIVE  PIECES. 


43 


Unblamed,  or  warble  at  the  gate  of  heaven 
Without  reproof.    But  as  for  us,  it  geems 
Scarce  lawful  with  our  erring  lips  to  talk 
Familiarly  of  thee.    Methinks,  to  trace 
Thine  awful  features  with  our  pencil's  point 
Were  but  to  press  on  Sinai. 

Thou  dost  speak 
Alone  of  God,  who  poured  thee  as  a  drop 
From  His  right  hand — bidding  the  soul  that  looks 
Upon  thy  fearful  majesty  be  still, 
Be  humbly  wrapped  in  its  own  nothingness, 
And  lose  itself  in  Him. 

RiaOCRNBY. 


THE    FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 

The  thoughts  are  strange  that  crowd  into  my  brain 
While  I  look  upward  to  thee.    It  would  seem 
As  if  God  poured  thee  from  His  "  hollow  hand," 
And  hung  His  bow  upon  thine  awful  front. 
And  spoke  in  that  loud  voice  which  seemed  to  him 
Who  dwelt  in  Patmos  for  his  Saviour's  sake, 
"The  sound  of  many  waters  ;*'  and  had  bade 
(17) 


Thy  flood  to  chronicle  the  ages  back, 
And  notch  the  centuries  in  the  eternal  rocks. 
Deep  calleth  unto  deep.     And  what  are  we, 
That  hear  the  question  of  that  voice  sublime  ? 
Oh  t  what  are  all  the  notes  that  ever  rung 
From  War's  vain  trumpet,  by  thy  thundering  side  ? 
Yea,  what  is  all  the  riot  that  man  makes 
In  his  short  life,  to  thy  unceasing  roar  ? 
And  yet,  bold  babbler,  what  art  thou  to  Him 
Who  drowned  a  world,  and  heaped  the  waters  far 
Above  its  loftiest  mountains? — a  light  wave 
That  breaks  and  whispers  of  its  Maker's  might ! 

BRAINAAD. 


VISIT  OF  THE  PRINCE   OF  WALES  TO   NIAGARA 

In  September  1860. 

ABRIDQKD  FROM  "  TBE  TIMES." 

"  Ui8  Boyal  Highness  may  almost  be  said  to  be  here  in 
privata  He  rides  or  walks  about  without  a  mob  at  his  heels, 
and  can  sit  and  watch  for  hours  the  tremendous  majesty  of 
the  scene  around  him.  It  is  just  as  well,  perhaps,  that  state 
is  dropped  before  Xiagara.    The  shout  of  a  mob,  or  the  little 


44 


DESCRIPTIVE  PIECES. 


tinsel  o{  a  procession,  would  loolc  poorly  beside  this  great 
altar  of  Nature,  wbt.re  a  misty  incense  is  always  rising  to 
heaven,  and  the  eternity  of  waters  speaks  only  of  Okx.  In 
this  scene,  princes,  powers,  and  dominations  are  all  forgotten, 
as  you  stand  before  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  which  pour  down 
with  such  a  majesty  of  powor,  that  you  can  only  gase  with 
solemn  awo  upon  the  grandest  and  most  terrible  of  all  God's 
works  in  nature.  It  is  a  scene  which  poets  and  authors  have 
tried  for  years,  but  always  failed  to  tell.  Artists  have  studied 
here,  poets  have  drawn  their  inspiration  from  its  huge  green 
billows,  and  some  of  the  ablest  penmen  of  the  Old  World  have 
written  less  what  they  saw,  perhaps,  than  what  they  thought 
of  these  mighty  cataracts.  But  Niaga:»  is  still,  and  must 
always  be,  unpainted  and  unsung.  You  miss,  in  all  the  best 
attempts,  its  might,  its  ever-changing  play  of  colour,  its  hide- 
ous rush — its  roar.  Words,  in  fact,  are  powerless  before  the 
stupendous  force  and  terror  of  this  cataract,  and  all  the 
wealth  of  language  would  be  exhausted  before  one  could 
tell  how  the  great  hill  of  waters  which  drops  from  the  mons- 
trous cliff  so  smooth,  so  green,  so  deep,  changes,  ere  one  can 
vu  rk  its  rush,  into  millions  of  columns  of  spray,  which,  dart- 
ing out  like  white  fire-works,  shoot  down  and  down,  till  lost 
in  the  clouds  of  mist  which  always  wrap  the  Falls  in  dim  and 
(17) 


grand  obscurity.  Let  the  visitor  gaze  from  the  Suspension 
Bridge  dovm  the  stream.  There  is  enough  to  occupy  the 
attention,  as  the  masses  of  deep  blue  water  rush  madly 
through  the  gorge  below  him,  cheeked  here  and  there  by  a 
sunken  rock,  over  which  they  storm  and  rave,  and  seem  to 
turn  upon  their  hidden  enemies  in  a  circle  of  dreadful  whirl- 
pools, the  ring  of  angry  froth  in  which  shows  the  vortex  where 
beams,  and  trees,  and  logs  of  timber  are  dragged  beneath, 
and  hurried  down  for  miles  and  miles,  till  they  emerge  at  last 
in  the  quiet,  solemn-looking  waters  of  Lake  Ontario.  Who 
that  has  ever  gaaed  from  this  bridge  can  wonder  at  the 
belief  of  the  Indians,  that  an  evil  spirit  resided  beneath  these 
dreadful  waters?  For  ever  and  anon,  out  of  the  least  angry 
spots,  a  huge  green  wave  will  suddenly  upheave,  and  seem  to 
choke  and  struggle  with  the  rest  For  an  instant  it  spreads, 
dark  and  terrible,  from  cliff  to  cliff,  as  though  it  strove  for 
room ;  then,  tumbling  forward,  is  carried  off  with  a  rush  like 
the  sweep  of  destiny.  As  you  gase  on  the  rush  of  waters 
from  above,  you  feel  a  horrid  yearning  in  your  heart  to  plunge 
in  and  join  the  mad  whirl,  and  see  the  mystery  out.  Yet, 
even  with  this  thought  at  the  strongest,  you  shrink  instinc- 
tively from  the  dreadful  brink,  where  the  very  waters  seem 
hurrying  to  destruction.    Faster  and  faster,  and  wilder  and 


DESCRIPTIVE  PIECES. 


45 


wilder,  it  pours  with  ovory  minute,  bent  into  crooked  chan- 
nels in  the  stones,  but  always  rushing  on,  as  if  the  river  were 
mad.  Trees  tumbled  over  trees,  their  wet  branches  out  of 
water,  as  if  they  strove  for  help  against  their  enemy,  and 
clung  for  one  brief  instant  to  the  banks,  to  be  whirled  down 
the  next  more  rapidly  than  ever.  At  last,  near  Ooat  Island, 
where  the  great  rapids  commence,  the  waves  'headlong 
plunge  and  writhe  in  agony,' — a  perfect '  hell  of  waters,' — the 
Charybdis  of  the  Western  World.  It  is  here  that  the  resist- 
less might  of  the  Great  Falls  can  be  best  appreciated,  af'  you 
note  the  tumbling  waters  gathering  strength  for  that  great 
avalanche  of  waves,  where,  racing  and  struggling  on  the  cllif, 
they  fall  at  last,  and  a  mighty  river  is  dashed  into  bells  of 
foam. 

"Let  the  traveller  pass  the  frail  wooden  bridge  which 
stretches  from  rock  to  rock  on  the  very  verge  of  the  Great 
Pall.  The  idol  of  all  the  worshippers  of  Nature,  the  goal  and 
object  of  Western  travai,  the  cataract  of  all  the  cataracts  of 


the  world  is  before  you,  and  you  pause  with  devotional  sad« 
ness,  as  '  deep  calleth  unto  deep'  with  thundering  roar,  and 
the  great  amphitheatre  of  green  waters  pouring  down  in  sullen 
majesty,  ia  lost  for  ever  in  the  clouds  which  rise  so  dense 
beneath  them.  Here  words  are  powerless,  guides  are  use- 
less, and  he  who  wishes  to  see  and  feel  Niagara,  must  watch 
it  for  himself.  He  must  watch  it  hour  by  hour,  as  the  deep 
green  mass  always  keeps  nearii^g  the  edge,  and,  flowing  smooth 
as  oil  nearer  and  nearer,  comes  slowly  and  solemnly  over  the 
cliff  like  a  green  curtain,  and,  with  one  stately  massive 
plunge,  pours  down  and  down,  till  the  eye  loses  its  rush,  and 
the  bright  emerald  hill  shades  into  dazzling  white,  and,  broken 
at  last  in  its  long  fall.  It  parts  into  spray  and  disappears  in 
the  mist  below. 

"  Niagara  has  flowed  from  all  time  as  it  thunders  now,  yet 
in  its  mighty  rush  frush  beauties  may  be  seen  every  hour, 
though  its  eternal  waters  never  alter  in  their  bulk  for  snmmei 
suns  or  the  melting  of  Canadian  snows." 


(ITJ 


